in the mirror, broadly liking what they see and then being able to forget about it for the rest of the evening. Because it's all about the personality anyway, right? Don't be ridiculous, of course it's not. ‘Appearance rules the world,’ as the German dramatist Friedrich Schiller once said.
Can we hijack men's tailoring for our own gain? It comes in so terribly useful, after all. Well, yes, we can. For if there is ever a trend that dominates Pre-Fall, it is Men's Tailoring.
Hold onto your horses, though. While I applaud the women who wore suits with ties at the recent menswear shows, most of us couldn't, and shouldn't, do that. But pants with pockets that are big enough to jangle change in? The way a cuffed pant-hem can break so perfectly over a brogue? An inside pocket in which to slip one's mannish wallet? You get the picture, I hope.
First rule, then, is not to be too literal. Unless you are, say, Tilda Swinton or Chloë Sevigny – both rock a white suit and angular hair
like no others. The point about men's tailoring – the only point, in my view – is to use it as a foil for one's tremendous femininity.
For me, the designer who gets this aesthetic best is Stella McCartney. I shall definitely be getting a pair of those slouchy, low-crotched pants she did for Pre-Fall (and showed with faux croc loafers) and on top, one of those beautifully tailored Iris blazers of hers. I'm also extremely keen on a little crème tux jacket by Vanessa Bruno, which taps into men's tailoring but couldn't be more feminine if it tried…. Bruno also did a pair of flat-front, tapered chinos, which I can just picture with a will-o'-the-wisp, sleeveless shirt and the perfect navy cashmere cardi. Masculin Féminin,
“The point about men’s TAILORING is to use it as a FOIL for one’s tremendous femininity”
as the cult Jean-Luc Godard 1966 movie was called, that's what we are aiming for here.
The other advantage is you can really go for it on the jewelry front. I love the way a pendant looks with a classic silk shirt, unbuttoned way low. Fiddling with a trinket on a chain, for me, is the female equivalent of Ryan Gosling with his toothpick in Drive. I also like a classic men's-style watch peeking out of a little-bit-too-long sleeve. Oversize, take careful note, is big for FW13, and Pre-Fall's men's tailoring is the clever way to start embracing this unavoidable look. So, a dropped crotch here, a too-long sleeve there, a jacket worn over your evening gown that looks like it was borrowed from your other half, that'll show you are in the know…
Don't forget the makeup, hair and nails. Like I said, this is the time to go for it. There's something about a smoky eye, great bed-head hair and a fabulously cut pantsuit in, say, herringbone or pinstripe, which is out-of-the-park sexy, don't you agree?”
THE GIRL'S TOUCH
Angle the look with striking jewelry.
A sharp shirt and tailored pants work for day or night.
Single-soled heels are a must.