makeup experienced a revival.
McGrath herself was a big contributor to spring’s gold rush, recreating the rich copper shades from the Gucci runway and sweeping them over models’ eyelids. She also created one of the most buzzed about beauty looks of the season: dragging thick smudges of shimmering metallic cream across models’ brows and under the eyes at Dior.
Plenty of fashion’s other favorite face painters were on the same tip. “Jason [Wu] picked it out,” makeup artist Diane Kendal revealed of the shimmering pink flecks she dusted over a wash of Lancôme’s Color Design Eye Brightening All-in-One 5 Shadow & Liner Palette in Bronze Amour backstage at Wu’s SS14 show. In Paris, Creative and Image Director of Christian Dior Makeup
“As SOON as you wear metallics in a SUBTLE way, with not much else, it becomes CHICER”
Peter Philips followed suit at Dries Van Noten, with an outside-the-box technique that involved weaving gold thread through models’ lashes to match a line of gold pigment along their parting (above).
“It is tricky because glitter makeup can easily become disco,” notes Philips. A big believer in cream pigments, like the brilliant Illusion D’Ombre Long Wear Luminous Eyeshadow he created during his previous tenure at Chanel, Philips prefers the blendable texture of a metallic mousse to heavier powders,
as they impart a sheer wash of color that “looks like it comes from within”. Placement, he says, is also the key to avoiding anything too retro-looking: “If you put [your shadow] under the eye, for example, it becomes something different.” Philips recommends a simple rim of shine just below the lower or along the upper lash line, blended into the lashes. “It becomes three-dimensional that way,” he explains of the effect.
At Altuzarra’s recent FW14 presentation, makeup artist Tom Pecheux brushed a transparent veil of MAC Glitter in 3D Brass Gold over the models’ eyes. “If you do work with metallics, everything else needs to be minimal,” he cautions. “As soon as you wear it in a subtle way, with not much else, it becomes chicer.”
Thanks to technological advancements, it is now possible to get an ultra-fine, sparkling finish. “Products can be jet-milled, so the particles are so fine you don’t see the flecks of glitter until you’re close up,” explains makeup artist Sir John – a former student of Pat
how to wear
LESS IS MORE
Understated makeup creates a chic effect.
Keep your pigment placement unexpected for a modern spin.
New-era jewel tones offer a sophisticated alternative to gold, silver and bronze.
LIGHT ME UP
Place highlighter only on
the high planes of your
face for a natural look.
Cream formulas provide
a more sheer, natural
finish than heavier
Glitter was applied to models’ partings at Dries Van Noten FW14credits
Photograph: Jason Lloyd-Evans