6 emerging labels to put on your radar right now
Introducing the latest clutch of designers to join The Vanguard – NET-A-PORTER’s selection of the most exciting emerging talent today. Underpinned by a global mentorship program, The Vanguard aims to empower fledgling designers to grow by nurturing their sartorial visions and accompanying businesses. This year’s esteemed entrants will join a glittering alumni that includes red-carpet darling CHRISTOPHER JOHN ROGERS, Netflix sensation MINJU KIM and cult designer PETER DO. So, who made the cut? This year’s cohort includes designers who have put sustainability (in every sense of the word) at the heart of what they do, labels championing a couture-like sensibility for every day of the week, and a fine jeweler who is changing the game with his contemporary take on timeless. Read on to meet the virtuosos behind these six standout brands…
Renaissance Renaissance
As a third-generation tailor, fashion is in Lebanese designer Cynthia Merhej’s blood. She founded her label Renaissance Renaissance in 2016 and, since then, each of the brand’s exquisite, couture-inspired pieces have been crafted in Merhej’s native Beirut.
“My family’s fashion legacy initially put me off pursuing a career in the industry. I’m quite rebellious, so the fact that my mother was always encouraging me [to design] really deterred me. I wanted to explore other mediums, so when I eventually came back to fashion it was on my own terms. I’d define my aesthetic as romance for modern, irreverent women; no matter the season, glamour is always relevant. When you are aware of the brevity of life – something that I believe Lebanese people are particularly attuned to – you understand the need and urgency to make the most of every day, and dressing up is a big part of that. Now, more than ever, women want to create precious moments that make them feel special.”
Lukhanyo Mdingi
Collaboration is at the heart of Lukhanyo Mdingi’s process, with the South African designer working exclusively with skilled artisans and local communities in Cape Town to create his collections. This year, his unique and equitable approach saw Mdingi nominated for the illustrious 2021 LVMH Prize and awarded joint winner of the Karl Lagerfeld Prize.
“The idea behind Lukhanyo Mdingi – the label that my team and I have created together – is to produce pieces that have a sense of honesty and integrity. Our collections blend artisanal craft with modern refinement, and we strongly believe that there is a sense of spirit bestowed by human hands. It brings a particular kind of quality that is woven into the fabric of all our pieces; purpose and intention are integral to everything we do. Working alongside skilled craftspeople who help bring our designs to life has allowed for a paradigm shift: in our world, fashion isn’t just a means to create clothes, but rather a means to create opportunities and a platform for all.”
„We strongly believe that there is a sense of spirit bestowed by human hands. It brings a particular kind of quality that is woven into the fabric of all our pieces; purpose and intention are integral to everything we do
“Lukhanyo Mdingi
Khiry Fine
Established in 2016 by political-science student turned designer Jameel Mohammed, fine jewelry label Khiry Fine has quickly amassed a cult following thanks to its distinctive Afro-futurist designs. In the process, Mohammed has shaped the luxury landscape, ensuring it will not be exclusively informed by Western traditions and culture.
“Khiry’s aesthetic is influenced by shapes and themes that recur in the global African diaspora. As an artist, I seek to engage not just with the aesthetics of my work, but also with the societal themes and processes that give rise to it. I think the world of fine jewelry is changing; customers are finding and resonating with work from a broader swathe of designers than ever before. Seeing tastemakers and leaders like Michelle Obama wear my designs reifies my initial aspiration for this brand, which was to create a coalition of like-minded folks committed to supporting one another in advancing their ideals about society.”
„As an artist, I seek to engage not just with the aesthetics of my work, but also with the societal themes and processes that give rise to it
“Jameel Mohammed
Sindiso Khumalo
Since relaunching her eponymous label in 2017, Cape Town-based designer Sindiso Khumalo has celebrated a series of career-affirming achievements. Her singular work, produced using local, handwoven textiles, has seen her become a 2020 LVMH Prize finalist and win the 2020 GCFA Best Independent Designer award.
“Every collection is an opportunity for me to tell stories of the Black African experience. My previous muses have been Black women in the 18th and 19th centuries – women like Harriet Tubman and Sarah Forbes Bonetta. If I had to summarize my aesthetic, I’d say it’s nostalgic, sustainable and textile-focused. Sustainability is an important part of our design process – not just in relation to the textiles we use, but also how our pieces are produced. My interest in sustainability lies mainly in the socio-economic impact of business and poverty alleviation. The social and environmental sides of the sustainability conversation are inextricably linked and, as a brand, we try to address both where we can.”
Interior
Established in 2020 by friends Jack Miner and Lily Miesmer, Interior is the New York-based label pioneering a new vision for the future of womenswear. Perfectly balancing directional design with infinite wearability, the brand’s elevated staples are crafted to slot effortlessly into your existing closet – while also lending it undeniable edge.
“We’re both involved in every step of the process, but we really play to each other’s strengths,” says Miner. “Lily is obsessive about fit, fabrication and wearability, while I’m more focused on the concept and narrative of the brand. We always want our garments to feel emotive and well-executed, while also being easy and uncomplicated. Clothes are a means of expression as far as we’re concerned, so we want people to have fun and feel uninhibited when they get dressed. Nowadays there’s a much greater sense of freedom reflected in people’s clothing choices – it’s about empowering people to show up as their authentic selves.”
„Nowadays there’s a much greater sense of freedom reflected in people’s clothing choices – it’s about empowering people to show up as their authentic selves
“Jack Miner
Conner Ives
Despite graduating just last year, sustainably minded wunderkind Conner Ives has already celebrated milestones that many established designers could only dream of, such as dressing model Adwoa Aboah for the 2017 Met Gala, working alongside Rihanna at Fenty, and being shortlisted for the 2021 LVMH Prize.
“Putting sustainability at the heart of my brand was never a question – from the very beginning, I wanted to make it one of the cornerstones of the label. When I first started working in the industry, aged 16, I was instantly disillusioned by the inherent wastefulness; it felt unsustainable and neglectful. I always describe my aesthetic as nostalgic but future-facing, and one of my favorite places to go for inspiration is the Cristóbal Balenciaga Museum in Getaria, Spain. I’ve been three times now and each trip has been more special than the last. In my opinion, Balenciaga is the master of us, and one of the main reasons I first became interested in fashion.”
„Putting sustainability at the heart of my brand was never a question – from the very beginning, I wanted to make it one of the cornerstones of the label
“Conner Ives