Most Wanted
A curated roundup of the best new fashion arrivals, hand-picked by our editors
There are certain enduring themes that seem to provide a wellspring of inspiration for designers, season after season, and chief among them is the ’90s. A return to a more minimal aesthetic after the excess and flamboyance of the ’80s, combined with a proliferation of subcultures and the emergence of more democratic beauty and style ideals, meant the decade was a watershed era for women’s fashion, hence its perpetual appeal.
It should come as no surprise, then, that the influence of the ’90s on the FW21 collections could be keenly felt. Case in point: Belgian designer Dries Van Noten’s matte silk camisole. This sensuous, blush-colored piece recalls the austerity and restraint of ’90s minimalism, while the asymmetric ruching is an almost imperceptible nod to the off-kilter grunge aesthetic that was another of the decade’s defining hallmarks. However, in the case of Van Noten, it’s worth pointing out that this move is more self-referential than inspired by. After all, Van Noten, who quickly shot to fame in the ’80s as one of the so-called Antwerp Six – an innovative design collective – was there first time around.
Elsewhere, Jonathan Simkhai has put a contemporary spin on the leather pant, a closet staple once favored by everyone from Gwyneth Paltrow and Winona Ryder to Aaliyah. Simkhai’s butter-soft design, cast in a sumptuous chocolate hue, is actually cut from vegan leather. And it’s not just the fabrication that has evolved – the designer’s wide-leg style, complete with cut-out details, also feels utterly fresh.
And if you thought accessories were exempt from this sartorial nostalgia, think again. Not only are the chain jewels that have dominated over the past few seasons inspired by the ’90s, FW21 also saw the return of logomania, one of the decade’s most prominent trends. This season, Spanish heritage house Loewe has brought this vintage-inspired look up to speed by creating exquisite leather totes, masterfully cut into the shape of its ‘Anagram’ motif. Thanks to the brand’s dedication to craft and quality, these utterly singular bags are future heirlooms.
Of course, the definition of an investment piece is different for everyone. In the case of NET-A-PORTER shopping editor Chloe Waller, it’s failsafe pieces she can wear on repeat. Which is why, when Los Angeles-based label Co’s crisp cotton dress dropped on site this week, she was quick to snap it up.
“I love nothing more than a throw-on-and-go dress, and this sculptural piece fits perfectly into my existing wardrobe. The gorgeous deep-navy color is chic and timeless. I’ll be styling it with The Row’s updated fisherman sandals and classic sunglasses for hot summer days, and then layered over knee-high boots and a second-skin roll neck for fall. This covetable dress is a flexible, forever piece, and as we all try to make an effort to shop more consciously, it's a truly worthwhile addition to any woman’s closet.”
Discover more from this week’s What’s New.