Reinvented classics courtesy of CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC
Raf Simons’ low-key riff on Americana is the PF18 collection your closet has been waiting for
It’s been 18 months since Raf Simons took up residence as Chief Creative Officer of CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC. That’s just a year and a half in which he’s staged three game-changing runway shows, reinvigorating New York fashion week in the process, unleashed a handful of headline-grabbing campaigns and recruited everyone from Millie Bobby Brown and Nicole Kidman to Lupita Nyong’o and Margot Robbie as die-hard fans. It’s also long enough for the much-respected Belgian designer to have created a handful of instantly recognizable signatures for the storied American label, already badges of honor among fashion’s best dressed; the block-color, patch-pocket western shirt; the cowboy boots, so coveted that they generated an industry-sweeping trend; the rollnecks, perfectly clean and simple, save the 205W39NYC embroidered along the side of the collar.
And now his PF18 collection has dropped. Fashion’s most savvy know that while pre-fall collections may be less flashy than their runway-showcased counterparts, it’s the season where designers really hone in what makes your day-to-day wardrobe tick, reinventing and reimagining hard-working and wear-forever classics. At CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC this season that means that Simons has taken the Americana thread that’s woven through each of the collections of his tenure so far and challenged it into pieces that you’ll want to pack out your closet with and wear on repeat for years to come, all infused with the slick sophistication and attention to detail that he’s so beloved for.
“Given that Simons has pedigree as one of the best menswear designers around, it should come as no surprise that the tailoring and outerwear is irresistible
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There’s a twisted heritage feel to the collection: see the double-breasted jackets or the blue wool maxi dress, conjured in a traditional Prince of Wales check that’s been gathered and twisted into an unmistakably contemporary, statement-making shape. And, given that Simons has pedigree as one of the best menswear designers around, it should come as no surprise that the tailoring and outerwear is irresistible. Slick, minimal shapes that are just oversized enough have a masculine, laid-back feel offset by the fact that they’re conjured in calamine pink or come with a checked, flared mini-skirt rather than pants. Then there are the separates, everything from the stirrup pants with sporty stripes to the colorful skirts. And, of course, there are muted takes on the aforementioned rollneck, this time in bodysuit form, and western shirts for you to invest in, too.
If you’re on the hunt for something truly statement-making, look to the lace-trimmed, high-shine burgundy skirt (which will also neatly push you ahead of next season’s trends) or the pieces covered in bold prints sourced from the Andy Warhol Foundation. And you’ll want to slip on the accessories, too; those cowboy boots have evolved into ankle boots, either silver-toed, flat and functional or with stacked heels in pristine white or glossy black. Stock up now or regret it later.