Good Soles with Salvatore Ferragamo
Adding a confident kick to every outfit, Salvatore Ferragamo’s FW18 shoes are true forever pieces
It doesn’t come as a surprise that the shoes in Paul Andrew’s inaugural Salvatore Ferragamo show were so exceptional. The British designer actually began his tenure at the Italian heritage brand, heading up the women’s footwear collections before he was swiftly promoted to creative director of women’s ready-to-wear last October. Andrew – who cut his teeth at Calvin Klein and Alexander McQueen – had been broadly regarded as the one to watch in the footwear industry, and his FW18 show further solidified his reputation as a modern shoe architect, as well as an exciting ready-to-wear designer.
Shoes have always been a cornerstone of the Italian heritage house’s DNA, and entering its archives must feel like a kid-in-a-candy-store moment for Andrew. This season, he was inspired to create subtly sexy knee-high boots, with the house’s signature hardware at the top and galvanized block heels, which were molded into three heights, sourced from ’30s-era Ferragamo styles. Adding a modern twist, their metallic gilding was finished in automobile factories. The boots stormed out one-by-one in enchanting autumnal shades of merlot red and mustard yellow, which blended seamlessly with parakeet green and deep blue and were anchored by optic white and nude.
““Revered for his timeless shapes with quirky detailing, these are shoes that add a refined high-fashion kick to every ensemble”
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Both their confident palette and modernist designs perfectly complemented the colorful, daywear-dominant collection of suede and leather trench coats, knitted dresses, floaty separates, sleek shirtdresses, loosely tailored jodhpurs, velvet gowns and scarf print-lined coats. In fact, some pieces of ready-to-wear seemed to intentionally shine a spotlight on the shoes: pants in buttery nappa leather and wool-silk blends were cropped to draw the eye downwards. Of course, there is always something hypnotically eye-catching about Ferragamo’s footwear; its brilliance lies in its ability to make a sophisticated and subtle statement. Take the Lucca pumps with their sculptural, scalloped heel that lends an artistic edge to a classic round toe silhouette, or the Varina ballet pump with its chic grosgrain bow that adds instant polish to any outfit.
It is perhaps for this reason that the brand became so popular with Old Hollywood actresses in the ’20s, and remains so sought-after on the red carpet today. Ferragamo’s original clients over the years included Audrey Hepburn, Sophia Loren, Greta Garbo and Katharine Hepburn, the latter of whom Andrew name-checked as an inspiration this season. Sat watching the show on the front row this season were Shailene Woodley and Danai Gurira, attesting the brand’s enduring attraction to A-list stars.
While they are shoes fit for stars of the silver screen, Andrew’s designs are beloved by all for their understated elegance. Revered for his timeless shapes with quirky detailing, these are shoes that add a refined high-fashion kick to every ensemble.