Back to Basics
From its time-honored elevated knitwear to elegant new leather separates, discover Brunello Cucinelli’s perennially chic FW19 collection
Over 40 years ago, Brunello Cucinelli founded his eponymous label on boldly colored cashmere after spotting a niche for innovative knitwear for women. For FW19 however, Cucinelli has pared his collection back to basics, with cozy winter whites, moody opaque base-layers and warm beige, tobacco and camel accents. The Italian designer has an eye for texture, so while the palette is refined, the collection is as multifaceted and versatile as it was visually arresting. The collection notes described it as “stripped down of excess, whispering of authentic, refined luxury” – what this means for Cucinelli’s cult following of cashmere-loving customers is effortlessly elegant pieces that are at once timeless and unconventional.
Some instant standouts include a buttermilk-colored cashmere bomber crafted in a fluffy texture that mimics shearling and epitomizes the brand’s legendary knitting skills. It’s the type of piece that could be worn with vintage-fit jeans and boots at the weekend, or with cream tailored pants to the office. Other pieces have a more traditional, homespun feel that nod to Northern European knitting styles; British cable knits and fisherman’s ribs, Irish motifs and Icelandic yoke designs are offset against lively argyle patterns – perfect for snuggling up in when the temperatures drop, or as a chic après-ski cover-up. The earthy, bucolic vibe is tempered and elevated by clean-lined, tailored separates, and the finest nappa leather. Lending a modernity to the bohemian line-up, the leather pieces – including a glorious cocoa-colored leather trench coat – are sleekly minimalist, ensuring this is a collection that befits city and rural dwellers, and is both office and off-duty appropriate. Wear it over a contrasting cream knit by day and one of the label’s dreamy dresses for after hours.
While the leather pieces are grounded in ’90s minimalism, other silhouettes – such as the high-rise wide-leg pants, oversized jumpers and belt bags – immediately draw to mind an ’80s spirit. Elsewhere, corduroy miniskirts paired with knee-high boots reference the early ’70s. Layering is key here, and the option to blend eras and mix materials attests to the brand’s deep understanding of how modern women want to dress nowadays. The need to travel and the desire to look perfectly put together with minimal effort – and suitcase space – is fulfilled by Brunello Cucinelli’s languid silhouettes, ultra-luxe fabrics and super-polished aesthetic. There is a throw-on-and-go ease that renders accessorising an option, not a necessity.
While he’s lauded for his enduringly elegant designs, Cucinelli is also praised for ensuring his employees are all held in the highest esteem, and every stitch of clothing is deftly handmade by Italian artisans based, for the most part, in Solomeo – a charming 14th century Umbrian village that Cucinelli has personally rebuilt over the past two decades.
From its laidback-luxe aesthetic to its heartfelt heritage, it’s not hard to see why Cucinelli has been crowned the ‘king of cashmere’.