An icon of style

Roger Vivier has a storied history in creating timelessly elegant shoes. Since the opening of his first boutique in Paris in 1937, the late designer’s maison has been the go-to for actresses, models and women who want to look extra-special every day. Most famously, it has been associated with era-defining women such as Marlene Dietrich, Elizabeth Taylor, Brigitte Bardot and, of course, Catherine Deneuve, who came to embody the iconic leather Belle pumps when she wore them in the cult 1967 movie, Belle de Jour.

In the sophisticatedly surreal film by Luis Buñuel, Deneuve’s mysterious and beautiful character Séverine appears in a black patent version of the pumps with the signature large square buckle. The scene secures both the French actress and the Belle pumps’ place not only in cinematic history, but in fashion history, too. The rebellious square-toe design made the shoe immediately stand out, and this confidence to be different and to push fashion’s boundaries guaranteed their longevity. Very soon, other taste-makers of that period – from Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis to Marlene Dietrich – began wearing them.

To this day, the pumps continue to play muse to the house of Roger Vivier. Under its newly appointed creative director, Gherardo Felloni, it inspired a new collection of shoes, bags and accessories for modern femme fatales. Put a modern twist on Deneuve’s Belle de Jour style by wearing yours with a cool leather trench coat, a pared-back T-shirt and indigo denim jeans.

With his distinct vision, Felloni draws upon a range of creative influences. His eye for silhouette and form originally led him to consider a career in architecture, but his father encouraged him to bring his unique perspective on the world around him to shoes. “I see the coincidence in a link between architecture and shoe design,” he says. “Each involves a structure that must be able to hold you inside of it.”

Other highlights this season include the two-tone sling-backs with a refined jewel-button fastening. With their coquettish kitten heel, they look divine with leather pants, an elegant cream knit and a tailored leopard-print coat. The rose-button Mary Janes, meanwhile, have a distinctively retro feel, making them the perfect finishing touch to offset an understated look of jeans and a turtleneck. Add a coat in a slightly ’60s silhouette to tap into this season’s nostalgic mood.