Valentino Garavani’s Spring Collection Sparks A Maximalism Renaissance
With a focus on archival designs and intricate details, Alessandro Michele’s runway debut for Valentino Garavani was highly anticipated by fashion insiders, ushering in a maximalist renaissance. From the polka-dot gloves to ruffled gowns, these are future heirlooms you’ll treasure forever
Of all the spring/summer 2025 collections arriving on NET-A-PORTER, Alessandro Michele’s runway debut for Maison Valentino has been one of the most anticipated. This is an opportunity for collectors and runway enthusiasts to buy a piece of fashion history, as this will be a memorable moment in the house’s history, which was founded in Rome in 1960. Michele is a studious designer who values research; and so, while honing his Valentino Garavani vision, he meticulously studied the archives in Palazzo Gabrielli-Mignanelli – an ancient palace built in Rome in 1575 for a noble family, which now houses binders of founder Valentino Garavani’s sketches and over 8,000 dresses. Michele has a romantic, sentimental approach to clothes, and has explained that he felt an innate connection to Valentino Garavani when exploring the archives – and this history is woven deeply into his new look for the brand.
“More is always more in Alessandro Michele’s world, where getting dressed is an art form
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A celebration of beauty and grandeur, Michele’s debut collection has a rich, couture-like approach to craftsmanship, with intricate textures, prints and enchanting adornments. It marks a wider maximalist renaissance, after years of a pared-back aesthetic dominating the fashion landscape. Michele always has a whimsical, artistic point of view, with styling that has a playful dressing-up-box irreverence – and the Pavillon Des Folies collection is a masterful blend of polka dots, ribbons, lace, bows, ruffles and feathers. More is always more in Alessandro Michele’s world, where getting dressed is an art form.
Dresses are key to his vision for SS25, with maxi gowns that cascade into layers of tiered ruffles and are a nod to originals from the ’60s and ’70s. A notable mention goes to a vintage-inspired blue gown that looks like it is an archive piece – it has a nostalgic design, while the color has depth and faded touches that you typically only see with vintage treasures. It has a fitted corset-like bodice, with delicate pleats, ruffles cascading from the hips, and a skirt that falls into a luxe trim that quite literally dance as you walk. Another hero dress is a ’70s-inspired paisley kaftan, which has a rich tapestry-like print and a luxurious, oversized silhouette. But it’s not all ’70s references, as the cream-collared mini dress looks like it’s straight out of the ’60s.
At the heart of this collection are the Valentino Garavani accessories, from wide-brim hats to lace stockings and silk turbans – and each one is a powerful tool to add further grandeur and personality to every look. The details matter to Michele, and so the silk and velvet bow hair ties, crystal-encrusted brooches and polka-dot gloves are more than just afterthoughts. The lace stockings and matching gloves add depth to each outfit, while the patent pumps are adorned with beautiful ribbons in the house’s signature scarlet hue. As always, handbags are an important part of the offering, and the Valentino Garavani ‘Viva Superstar’ bag, which is inspired by the ’70s, has an elegant silhouette, but adds a graphic dimension to each outfit with a bold, two-tone logo – the perfect finishing touch to any look from this magnificent collection.