The Maisons Making The World’s Most Exquisite High Jewelry

An avant-garde collection that has enchanted minimalists and modern aesthetes for over 70 years, Repossi’s Serti Sur Vide collection has been reinterpreted with 13 new high-jewelry creations, each heroing the iconic design’s signature pear-shaped diamonds. The maison’s magic touch lies in its unique setting technique – known as the Eiffel Tower setting – which mimics a geologist holding the stone between their fingers, allowing light to flood each diamond and appear to float upon the skin. This year, the maison has riffed on cascading diamond compositions across rings, ear cuffs, earrings and a brooch – and has even experimented with color; a Fancy Serti Sur Vide capsule collection combines white diamonds and colored diamonds to striking effect. But this isn’t the first time the brand has employed colorful gems – this ‘Serti Sur Vide’ ring, which is tipped with a verdant emerald alongside two exquisite diamonds, is perfect for those who like to sport a vibrant ringscape. For 2026, the collection’s classic pear-shaped stones are joined by cushion-cut and marquise diamonds – and a clutch of pieces that celebrate the maison’s 40-year tenure in its Place Vendôme store have been crafted in similarly bold Indicolite tourmalines, green tourmalines and aquamarines. Embrace the magic of the collection with this 18-karat white-gold cuff from our edit, and pair with earrings from the brand’s Berbere and Antifer collections – chic and contemporary hoops designed for real life and the red carpet.

This year, Nikos Koulis has entered an age of experimentation with its high-jewelry creations, making its first foray with tortoiseshell acetate. The new 77 collection explores how this lightweight material plays with light to offer a unique shimmer and glow in earthy tones – a switch up from the Greek designer’s signature black enamel designs, such as these ‘Look’ earrings or this ‘Oui’ ring crafted in 18-karat yellow and white gold respectively. Eco-conscious collectors will rejoice – this new medium is a renewable, plant-based material that has been set with the finest diamonds, juxtaposed with white and yellow gold. The collection was named after the year of the founder’s year of birth, and each piece is undeniably imbued with the bohemian spirit of the ’70s – from statement necklaces to hoop earrings and bold rings. Those who have already invested in a Nikos Koulis creation – such as his sculptural ‘ME’ 18-karat gold and diamond necklace, or this utterly irresistible 18-karat gold and pear-shape diamond cigar band ring – will find that the new collection boasts similar design codes and will effortlessly chime alongside.

The ultimate authority on pearl-jewelry making, Mikimoto is globally renowned for its day-to-day designs, such as this pearl, diamond and blue sapphire bracelet and elegant double pearl and diamond drop earrings – but also for its showstopping high-jewelry masterpieces. The brand’s new high-jewelry collection, L’éclat, explores the beauty of light emerging from stillness; highlighting a pearl’s inner brilliance, and paying homage to the maison’s origins, with a flurry of designs that capture this jewel’s unique and mystical glow. The collection brings together a remarkable repertoire of large white South Sea pearls, set alongside a diverse variety of different diamond cuts and sculpted mother-of-pearl, as well as vivid colored stones – profoundly saturated green tourmalines, emeralds and blue sapphires. From designs inspired by the countless stars that make up a galaxy, to those that interpret rays of light shining into the endless cosmos, this is an intensely magical offering that won’t fail to enchant the pinnacle of high-jewelry collectors. Those who can’t quite justify a high-jewelry splurge can seek out the maison’s everyday designs that still channel a little of the midnight sky strewn with stars, such as this exquisite pearl, blue sapphire and diamond pendant – the epitome of contemporary classicism.