The Fashion Forecast

“Don't be afraid to try interesting shapes, colors or patterns once you have your core coats,” advises writer and creative consultant Tahirah Hairston, who meticulously curates her own coat collection. “I definitely put a lot of thought into my winter-coat purchase, especially because, once the weather gets colder in New York, your coat is the most important part of your outfit… I’m a very intentional shopper and I always think of longevity in terms of how much wear I can get out of something, or how special this piece might be to me further down the line.”

Tilly Macalister-Smith, a writer and editor based between New York and London, suggests seeking out luxe, foundational styles with a common thread. “A great winter coat is certainly not something I splash out on every year, so whatever I end up buying needs to stand the test of time – and that usually means an understated style in a beautiful fabric. I am guilty of collecting a bit of a coat wardrobe over the years and have many different styles to suit different occasions, but the recurring theme is that they are all quite masculine.”

Typically laid-back, streetwear-inspired pieces have extravagant alter egos this season, courtesy of Loewe and Khaite. Loewe’s plush, padded leather bomber in bottle green puts a sophisticated spin on this sporty staple. “Bomber jackets are often casual, but in leather, they immediately become more luxe and refined,” says NET-A-PORTER market director Libby Page.

In a similar vein, Khaite’s puffer coat comes in a glossy finish that makes it feel instantly more dressed up. Offering optimum comfort, it’s still a relaxed choice but with just enough polish to be perfect for layering over fall dresses and suiting. “The puffer has long been considered an off-duty coat, but that was before this season,” says NET-A-PORTER fashion director Kay Barron. “In dramatic shapes, sizes and colors, these are pieces that should take center stage at any time of day – and for (almost) all occasions.”

“If your coat is making the statement, feel free to tone down the rest,” advises Barron. “I love the contrast of a cropped puffer with tailored pants – wide-leg or narrow – rather than denim. Similarly, with Khaite’s high-shine padded coat, you want to keep it as elevated as it deserves, but also grounded with a great pair of boots.”

When it comes to more tailored styles, designers were seduced by enveloping silhouettes. At Bottega Veneta, newly minted creative director Matthieu Blazy injected a classic pea coat with modern cool by manipulating it into a more directional, curved shape at the back. The graceful volume found in Blazy’s debut collection was inspired by Umberto Boccioni’s 1913 sculpture Unique Forms of Continuity in Space, while the collection notes defined it as ‘extravagance meets utility’. “Bottega Veneta is in essence pragmatic because it is a leather-goods company,” says Blazy. “Because it specializes in bags, it is about movement, of going somewhere; there is fundamentally an idea of craft in motion. It is style over fashion in its timelessness. That is part of its quiet power.”

Over at Alaïa, creative director Pieter Mulier paid homage to the house’s rich aesthetic heritage by delving into the archives. Here, he discovered a coat the French maison’s namesake designer – the late Azzedine Alaïa – designed for Greta Garbo. The collection notes described this piece of fashion history as ‘big, bigger, biggest, with a collar to hide behind’. For the Alaïa woman of today, Mulier conjured a dramatic cape in oversized ivory and black check – a divine piece that is worthy of any leading lady’s attention.

When it comes to knockout knitwear, there are a handful of brands that have made it their heartland – and one that can always be relied upon is Joseph. Since Anna Lundbäck Dyhr and Frederik Dyhr took the helm as as co-creative directors in 2020, the husband-and-wife duo have impressed with their refined reinterpretation of the British brand’s minimal elegance: “Fred and I felt it was about the evolution of Joseph, rather than a revolution,” explains Lundbäck Dyhr.

A key piece this season is the generously proportioned, monochrome turtleneck in a sumptuous merino wool. “Joseph is about timeless essentials, but we want the wearer to feel like they are buying into something more than just a sweater,” says Dyhr. “The stripes are a play on the iconic stripes of the brand, a bold graphic, yet the black and white keeps it easy and effortless to wear again and again… I like to think the Joseph woman wears it with a wid-leg jean like our new ‘Brompton’ style on the weekend, but also with tailored pants to the office during the week.” It looks equally chic over a pleated midi and chunky boots, with thick cashmere socks.

Having a collection of classic knits in your closet makes fall dressing a breeze – there is something deeply comforting about slipping into a cozy sweater on a cold, gray day. Look to The Row for perfect cashmere turtlenecks in a range of colors. Alongside styles that we can wear on repeat, it’s wise to invest in a statement knit or two that will work for dressier occasions. Alexander McQueen’s oversized sweater has a homespun feel with a punkish spirt. An abstract mushroom design comes in bright colors, with distressed, pulled-through yarns that evoke the plant’s fibrous texture – and nod to the collection’s focus on nature, community and connection. Styled with a leather midi skirt and heels, you have a comfortable yet captivating evening look.

While both coats and knits possess a throw-on-and-go ease, there are always ways of making your look feel more ‘pulled together’. For the most part, it all boils down to balance: “I style statement knits with a slip skirt and chunky boots,” says Page. “I love to add a touch of femininity to anything I wear, so mixing oversized knits with something softer on the bottom gives the look balance.”

Roomy silhouettes can appear more sumptuous, cooler, and are often more flattering, as well as offering endless styling possibilities. Toughen up a trench coat by layering a leather biker jacket underneath, or create a colorful contrast by pairing a bright turtleneck with a sweater vest.

“I love the lean look of a long coat with narrow arms, but be realistic about how easily it can accommodate chunky knitwear,” says Macalister-Smith. “And for a crew-neck sweater, go up by two sizes for a fit that is slouchy and cozy.” Ultimately, we want pieces we can’t wait to wrap up in, and that bring us joy when we open our closet each morning – particularly when the weather forecast is far less inviting.

The best coats to wear this winter

The FW22 trend report, starring Charithra Chandran