Sonia Petroff’s Bold, Surrealist Jewelry Is Designed To Be Treasured
The Italian maison’s handcrafted jewels are built on legacy, from talismanic cuffs to serpentine chokers and statement belts encrusted with gemstones. By GRACE COOK
Jewelry is one of life’s true totems. Whether it adorns us in our everyday, bringing a touch of sparkle to our smart-casual wardrobes, or is saved for special, after-dark occasions, each piece of jewelry comes with its own story of origin — from the gemstones, diamonds and precious metals it’s made up with, to the way in which each jewel has come into our own possession. An item of jewelry can be an heirloom piece; it’s a gift to ourselves, or given to bookmark one of life’s special occasions. From glinting earrings to scintillating chokers and bracelets, each piece is interlinked with an almost folkloric narrative.
And that sentiment very much rings true when it comes to Sonia Petroff. Take, for example, the ‘Dragonfish’ belt — a woven-rope design affixed with the sculptural motif of two fish, as if rippling through the water in flames. This mythical creature is a potent combination of mythology and evolution; an imagined species that mixes the earth’s elements. Dreamed up by Petroff and rendered anew by creative director Maria Leoni-Sceti, the symbolism feels almost Dalí-esque. Encrusted with marbled blue cabochons, it’s the perfect accessory to cinch a billowy spring dress.
“An item of jewelry can be an heirloom piece; it’s a gift to ourselves, or given to bookmark one of life’s special occasions
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The famed jewelry house is revered for its statement-worthy gemstones and its bold, surrealist designs, all handcrafted in Italy. But Sonia Petroff’s history is as storied as its creations. In its modern iteration, the brand, revitalized in 2018 by Leoni-Sceti, was born from a true tale of inheritance and uncovered gems, both literally and emotionally. “I was looking for my own next chapter… and I found it in my aunt Sonia’s archive,” says UK-based Leoni-Sceti.
The story goes that Leoni-Sceti inherited the jewelry collection of her husband’s aunt, Sonia Petroff, in 2015. In the ’60s and ’70s, Petroff had been, it transpired, a renowned jeweler, working for designers such as Valentino Garavani and Balmain; in the archive, Leoni-Sceti found photographs of Petroff with Hollywood actors such as Marlon Brando and Clark Gable. There were some 800 exquisite pieces in the archive. Upon her death, her high-life past and striking talent were revealed.
“Sonia Petroff was a trailblazer for women determining the course of their own lives, which can still be a challenge for women of today,” says Leoni-Sceti of Petroff, who was born into Bulgarian aristocracy but ended up in Rome after fleeing during the Second World War. “Despite being pressured to marry, Sonia prioritized her work and her travels. She followed her passion and created a legacy that we are proud to continue today.”
“Sonia Petroff was a trailblazer for women determining the course of their own lives, which can still be a challenge for women of today
”
It manifests in bright, distinctive jewelry that is guaranteed to bring a touch of the unexpected to everyday outfits. Think elongated pendants with sunburst motifs, gold clip-on earrings that are inspired by serpents, and whimsical belts that mesh functionality with fantastical design. The brand’s artistic ethos enables its women to lean into more extroverted moods; it’s a refreshing switch-up from the trend for understated jewelry. Each piece makes the case for statement-worthy accessories, whether worn for elegant after-hours events with a black gown, or mixed with vacation-worthy separates for a cocktail by the beach.
Leoni-Sceti, who is inspired by her own travels as much as Petroff’s original talismans, sees herself as a custodian, as well as a creative director. “Continuing my aunt’s legacy was about honoring her as a person and preserving the spirit of her work, and her vision of creating beautiful, bold jewelry that empowers women to be themselves,” she says. “Her approach to jewelry still has so much relevance today.”
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