The 6 Jewelry Investment Pieces Every Collector Needs

Just like a luxury handbag, or even a luxury car, when you’re investing a large sum in a single item, every element has to feel just right. And often, that starts with color. Such an overwhelming aspect of how a piece of jewelry makes us feel, our choice of color speaks to our unique sense of style, our identity, and sometimes even our psychology. Pick delicate shades of pink, such as Ileana Makri’s pretty peach morganite earrings, and they will blend seamlessly into a wardrobe centered on pastels and saccharine shades, while Irene Neuwirth’s emerald necklace features a vibrant stream of cabochon stones that would add a verdant pop of color to a roster of tailored staples in monochrome tones. Mateo’s elegant diamond-encrusted ring is topped with a stunning Asscher-cut topaz that will add extra character, romance and personality to an otherwise restrained ring stack. The rule? Choose a color you fall in love with – and that love will last a lifetime.

When we hear the words diamond bracelet in the context of an investment purchase, most of us conjure up an image of a classic tennis bracelet design – a simple stream of round diamonds. But investment doesn’t have to mean plain, or without intrigue. Anita Ko riffs on traditional tennis bracelet design codes by bezel-setting each emerald-cut stone, forming a sinuous, supple strand that gleams with 18-karat gold as much as it glimmers with diamonds. A diamond bracelet doesn’t have to be a strict chain style, either – bangles are an easy way to create a scintillating wrist stack centered on contemporary classicism. Repossi’s ‘Serti Sur Vide’ white gold and diamond bangle boasts an eye-catching pear shape and round diamonds, while De Beers’ 18-karat white gold diamond bracelet is set with a trail of bezel-set diamonds that glisten in the light. Simply choose the piece that feels most at home on your wrist when you wear it.

When the world’s most magnificent fine jewelry collections have come to auction, built over a lifetime by some of Hollywood’s leading ladies, they have always had one thing in common: a sensational cocktail ring – or several. A cocktail ring is perhaps the most lavish investment piece you will buy, as it is not intended for the everyday, and must feel fabulous. Unusual gems are a great place to start and will make your cocktail ring a conversation starter – Jacquie Aiche’s 18-karat domed design features an extraordinary 2.80 carat tourmaline in a juicy shade of watermelon pink that will set tongues wagging. However, a cocktail ring doesn’t have to feature a large gemstone – minimalists may prefer to stick to designs that showcase extraordinary metal work, such as Marina B’s ‘Silana’ design, set with blue topaz and mother-of-pearl within a kite-shaped dome. Whichever you opt for, it must be a piece that you choose with your heart, not purely with your head.

Every collection should contain at least three pairs of hoop earrings, ranging from petite to mid-size to statement. Minimalists should ensure they have an all-metal pair in each iteration, whereas those who err towards opulence should invest in designs that play differently with diamonds and colored gemstones. Lucy Delius’s ‘Chubby Love’ hoops are set with multi-sized pavé diamonds in a rhodium setting that makes them look like a vintage pair, while Spinelli Kilcollin’s ‘Zahra’ silver design feels utterly understated. There is, of course, in every fine-jewelry collection, a place for an extravagant show-stopping piece – such as Suzanne Kalan’s multi-colored sapphire hoop earrings, which feature over six carats of baguette-cut sapphires in rainbow hues. While they probably aren’t a design that your great-granddaughter will be wearing every day to the office, they will most definitely bring a smile each time she pops them on for party time.

Chain necklaces tend to be underrated in terms of investment purchases, perhaps because of their connotations of casual dressing, but with gold prices surging ever higher, they will always add value to any collection. The ultimate investment is a chunky, metal-heavy design by Foundrae, such as its ‘Resilience Menagerie’ necklace, which brings material value thanks to its precious 18-karat gold and dustings of diamonds, but far more sentimental value thanks to the meaning behind its glittering medallion – an emblem of overcoming life’s adversities. If you admire its unusual composition of mixed links, then London-based designer Lucy Delius is another worthy name to invest in – she blends antique and contemporary codes to create unusual takes on classic stalwarts, such as her ‘Double Diamond Stirrup’ chain. Investment buys don’t always have to bear big price tags though; a curated edit of delicate chains can be just as charming to pass down, such as Marie Lichtenberg’s ‘Micro Coco’ necklace, adorned with a ruby-set barrel-shaped pendant. Consider choosing designs that carry hidden meaning, such as initials, numbers or your birthstone, which will make them all the more special when they’re eventually inherited.

Drop earrings are among the most versatile investment pieces, with myriad lengths, drops and designs to flatter every ear. As the pieces of jewelry worn closest to the face, it’s important to choose earrings in metal tones that best suit your skin tone while remaining practical for everyday activities. If you already have a stack of piercings up the ear, it makes sense to choose a pair of drop earrings that pair well with huggies and studs, such as Anita Ko’s delicate diamond drops. If, however, your collection leans more to bohemian design codes, then Pomellato's pair of ‘Nudo’ topaz drop earrings are the perfect choice – especially for those who prefer warm stones to stark white diamonds. The traditionalists, meanwhile, can’t go wrong with Garrard’s ‘1735’ drop earrings – they feature the house’s iconic cluster setting with two bold, beautiful blue sapphires, a design made famous by Princess Diana’s iconic engagement ring. While their legacy is better known than most, it’s important to remember that every piece of jewelry has this generation-transcending potential – just start with a little forward thinking.