Cover story

Total Escapism

With

Paula Anguera

Total Escapism with Paula Anguera

Before diving into your vacation, take the time to finesse your packing. Whether it’s zesty pool essentials or an audacious pair of cowboy boots – plus the standout pants, tanks and shorts to make them work overtime – these are the versatile pieces to add to your closet for this summer and beyond, says GEORGIE LUCAS

Photography Kate BellmFashion editor Helen Broadfoot
Cover Stories
This image: bikini top (part of set), Haight; bikini briefs, Magda Butrym; cowboy boots, Ganni; necklace, Jia Jia; bracelet, TBalance Crystals. Main image: tank, Agolde; bikini briefs (part of set), Haight; short necklace, Jia Jia; long necklace, Fry Powers

Dreaming of sun-kissed skin, salty hair and the gentle lap of cool waters on soft sand? Look to the high-summer collections to provide the ultimate wanderlust closet. This season, designers looked to the ’70s and ’90s to deliver nostalgic pieces that offer versatile styling solutions beachside – and will carve out a place in your closet long after the sun sets on your vacation. So, whether you’re packing for a far-flung destination or injecting the spirit of sunshine into your at-home closet, these are the pieces to invest in now, plus the best ways to style them – from colorful swimwear to elevated accessories and more.

“If you add one new style this summer, think bold PRIMARY colors – like a box of kids’ Crayola crayons – CONFIDENT cutouts or STRAPPY bikinis”

NET-A-PORTER fashion director Kay Barron

New-season swimwear

Wherever you spend your summer, one thing is indispensable – swimwear, and the SS23 collections deliver a riot of punchy color and high-impact silhouettes. Cut through the melee by remaining true to your style: “While the mood for swimwear this summer is colorful and super-sexy, don’t panic, as whatever you feel most comfortable in is the mood of the season,” says NET-A-PORTER’s fashion director Kay Barron. “If you add one new style this summer, think bold primary colors – like a box of kids’ Crayola crayons – confident cutouts or strappy bikinis.”

Bikini, Melissa Obadash; denim shorts, Isabel Marant; necklace, Jia Jia; bracelet, TBalance Crystals

It makes sense to start with a label that hails from the beach capital of the world – Rio-based Haight. “Our pieces are designed to be used for different occasions and looks,” says founder Marcella Franklin of the label’s slick, elevated styles. Haight’s zesty-orange bikini is exclusive to NET-A-PORTER and the ultimate uplifting summer hue. “There’s a feeling of optimism and vibrancy in leisure time,” says Franklin, “and laranja mie is a vibrant, intense, sunny color that works well on all skin tones.”

The JOY of well-cut SWIMWEAR is it needn’t be confined to the POOL or beach

If you’re in the mood to mix it up, pair the bold tone with contrasting colors – see Magda Butrym’s cobalt-blue high-waisted bikini bottoms. The joy of well-cut swimwear is it needn’t be confined to the pool or beach: “I treat swimwear as RTW on vacation,” says Barron. “A swimsuit with denim shorts and a white linen shirt tied over the top is always a win. And in hot weather in the city, a colorful bikini top is a cute bra alternative for a bold hit beneath a pale silk shirt.”

Standout combinations

The key to building any closet with longevity is investing in pieces you love. “This summer is about eclecticism,” says Libby Page, NET-A-PORTER’s market director. “Bringing together colors, prints and items that ‘shouldn’t’ work, but do – cue bikini bottoms and cowboy boots, for example. This mood truly allows every individual to celebrate their own style and throw the rule book out the window.”

It’s a philosophy that’s fueled Danish brand Ganni’s stratospheric rise. Perhaps an unexpected alternative to barely-there sandals for warmer days, its cowboy boots are the perfect way to express individuality this season, says creative director Ditte Reffstrup: “I’ve worn cowboy boots with dresses since I was a little kid, and my mum would always laugh at my strong sense of personal style,” she says. Plus, they don’t need to be retired when cooler weather returns: “They are a wardrobe staple,” says Reffstrup. “I wear mine with evening looks to make things a little less classic, to the office styled with jeans and a blazer for a relaxed but put together look, and to weddings paired with a feminine dress.”

Sleeveless denim shirt, Tibi; bikini briefs, Haight; cowboy boots, Ganni

On VACATION, when you’re beckoned away from the beach or pool, a few VERSATILE essentials can TRANSITION effortlessly to lunch, or beyond…

Swimsuit, The Attico; denim jacket, Stella McCartney; necklace, Jia Jia; bracelet, TBalance Crystals
Bikini top, Toteme; earrings, Jacquemus

Elevated basics

On vacation, when you’re beckoned away from the beach or pool, a few versatile essentials can transition effortlessly to lunch, or beyond. First up, the tank – this understated style has become something of a stealth closet hero, and was the star of last summer. Californian brand Agolde’s tie-dye ‘Nova’ style perfectly captures this season’s nostalgic mood: “The ‘Nova’ is our go-to essential tank,” says Karen Phelps, Agolde’s creative director. “A shrunken silhouette with a thoughtful curved hem showcasing a touch of midriff makes it a true summer piece, and the hand-dyed textural print is reminiscent of the late ’90s.”

And while floaty dresses will always have a place in your suitcase, this season, try a pair of what Vogue has dubbed ‘poolside pants’. “Pants should not take a back seat for summer,” agrees Page. “Whether that’s an elasticated-waistband style in a light linen or a statement crochet pair, they can be just as much a part of your summer wardrobe as they are for winter.” The ideal style can be worn with a swimsuit as a body, paired with a trusty tank, or dressed up with a slinky silk shirt. Try Stella McCartney’s black pair, crocheted with hearts, to add a sprinkling of Daisy Jones bohemia to your look, or Loewe’s cult collaboration with Paula’s Ibiza may have delivered the perfect pair of summer jeans – a rose-printed pair with a free-wheeling ’70s mood.

This season’s PASSION for all things ’90s is driving a major vintage-denim REVIVAL… Choose wisely and the UTILITY fabric will switch up easily from deserted beach to city rooftop

Bikini, Faithfull The Brand
Bodysuit, Isabel Marant; jeans, Maison Margiela

Nostalgic denim

Speaking of summer jeans, this season’s passion for all things ’90s is driving a major vintage-denim revival. Choose wisely and the utility fabric will switch up easily from deserted beach to city rooftop. Enter the denim jacket: “There’s a reason we’re all glued to a denim jacket over summer,” says Page – “namely its longevity; it has yet to go out of fashion. To keep things feeling fresh, pair it with a matching pair of denim shorts or style blue with blue.” Seek out something oversized, with classic details – this summer, it doubles as the perfect cover-up, and you’ll have it in your arsenal forever.

The joy of denim is its star doesn’t fade when it steps out of the spotlight. “Denim is one of the purest forms of a true American classic,” says Amy Smilovic, founder and creative director of New York-based brand Tibi. Championing the evergreen appeal of the denim shirt, the label’s boxy sleeveless style comes in the perfect shade of blue: “It’s the piece that can make anything dressed up a little more chill; anything tailored a bit more effortless,” she says. “On summer vacay, I’ll toss one over a bandeau top and a full skirt; or, for life in New York, I’ll wear it with my favorite jeans for a whole denim moment.”

Ribbed tank, Matteau; jeans, Loewe Paula’s Ibiza; necklace, Jia Jia; bracelet, TBalance Crystals
Bikini top, Toteme; bracelet, TBalance Crystals

“I look to JEWELRY to provide easy ways to add a little vacation SPIRIT… Hammered gold is great, as it doesn’t lose its LUSTER if tarnished with a little salty seawater”

Writer and editor Tilly Macalister-Smith
Bodysuit, Louisa Ballou; crochet pants, Stella McCartney; necklace, TBalance Crystals

All in the details

When every piece on your packing list must earn its place, it’s the finishing touches that elevate a look, says Tilly Macalister-Smith, a writer and editor based between New York and London. “I look to jewelry to provide easy ways to add a little vacation spirit to a simple linen dress, or a swimsuit that doubles as an evening bodysuit. Hammered gold is great, as it doesn’t lose its luster if tarnished with a little salty seawater. And beaded earrings and necklaces – oversized and in vibrant colors – feel instantly beachy with a tan.”