5 things to love about Christopher Bailey’s Burberry
Today, CHRISTOPHER BAILEY will take his final bow on the Burberry runway in London. After more than 16 years at the fashion house, he’s stepping down from his position as Chief Creative Officer. But what will we remember most about Bailey’s Burberry? By EMMA SELLS
He supercharged the runway show
In 2009, Bailey moved Burberry’s catwalk show from Milan to London, injecting some ‘big brand’ glossiness into the British capital’s schedule in the process. The huge tent that popped up in Kensington Gardens each season (and then Makers House in Soho) became the most sought-after ticket of the week, with banks of photographers waiting outside, a star-studded front row (Kate Moss, Sienna Miller, Naomi Campbell and even Harry Styles were among its regular inhabitants), and show-stopping moments. FW12’s finale, when Cara Delevingne led a troupe of umbrella-carrying models down the runway as ‘snow’ fell from above, was a particular highlight.
He upgraded our playlists
A huge music fan, Bailey recruited a smorgasbord of up-and-coming musicians to provide the soundtrack to his shows. He has discerning taste: Benjamin Clementine, Jake Bugg, George Ezra and Tom Odell have all performed at the top of the catwalk early in their careers. Bailey called upon established names, too, such as when Alison Moyet sang throughout the SS16 show accompanied by a full orchestra. And we could all witness the magic as it happened. Now that you can watch almost every major fashion show live on your laptop, it’s easy to forget that Burberry pioneered live fashion-week streaming in 2010.
Listen to the Burberry playlist here.
He dressed the ultimate girl gang
Are any of the world’s most stylish women not on Bailey’s list of fans? Often referred to as the nicest man in fashion, over the past 16 years he’s dressed Sienna Miller, Emma Watson and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley for the Met Ball, while Adele often wore his designs to ceremonies including the Grammys and the BRIT Awards. The singer took to Instagram when it was announced that Bailey was leaving to say, “He always collaborated with my insecurities to create outfits that have become a signature for me and made me feel f*g great!” Another long-time collaborator is Cara Delevingne, who appeared in multiple campaigns for the fashion house, but her attachment to the designer is much more than a favored employer. “Christopher is not only a designer, he is a visionary,” says Delevingne. “He tells stories through his collections. The clothes are beautiful but have a sense of humor mixed in. He is an incredible talent and just an all-round wonderful human being. I’ve been so lucky to work with him from the beginning of my career. My first-ever leather jacket was Burberry and I have continued to be a fan of the clothing ever since. Everything from the new collection – the scarves, hats and trenches – is perfect.”
He killed it with campaigns
Bailey has a knack for enlisting models just before their careers explode. Over the years, he’s recruited Agyness Deyn, Lily Donaldson and Edie Campbell to take center stage. “Burberry, and Christopher Bailey, have been a huge part of my career,” says Campbell. “I shot my first campaign with Christopher, and countless more since, and for that I will be eternally grateful. He’s been a wonderful man to work with: always kind, relaxed, and positive.” It’s not just models, either – revisit the SS08 campaign and marvel at a very youthful Eddie Redmayne bedecked in sequins. The imagery is never short of gloss: Delevingne once posed with Kate Moss, Eddie Redmayne and Matt Smith, while Emma Watson made her fashion campaign debut with brother Alex.
He reclaimed the Burberry check
Once the epitome of chic, in the late ’90s and early ’00s the Burberry check – much appropriated and endlessly copied – lost its luster. It had been hiding in fashion’s hinterlands for years until it was reincarnated as a modern must-have– first in a 2017 menswear capsule with cult Russian designer Gosha Rubchinskiy and then all over the SS18 collection. Cue fashion editors across the land scrabbling around in the backs of their closets to pull out scarves and trenches long forgotten, then looking pretty smug about it. And Bailey hasn’t stopped there. Ahead of this weekend’s show, he’s unveiled a brand-new rainbow check, along with the news that Burberry will be working with three LGBTQ+ charities: the Albert Kennedy Trust, ILGA World and the Trevor Project. “My final collection here at Burberry is dedicated to and in support of some of the best and brightest organizations supporting LGBTQ+ youth around the world,” says Bailey. “There has never been a more important time to say that in our diversity lies our strength, and our creativity.”
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