The Art Of Timeless Style, With Diane Von Furstenberg

“I created the wrap dress but, really, the wrap dress created me,” says Diane von Furstenberg of the style that garnered her, and her brand, legendary status in the fashion industry. Diane von Furstenberg – or DVF, as the house is often styled – founded her eponymous label in 1972 and launched her iconic, form-fitting silhouette two years later. The DVF dress reimagined the classic wrap in silk jersey – an innovation that made it flattering, comfortable and versatile. This year marks its 50th anniversary, a milestone that von Furstenberg is celebrating with usual panache. Fans can look forward to a sleek, limited-edition 16-piece capsule, released as part of the spring ’24 collection, titled The First Woman. The lineup features dynamic reworkings of signature wrap cuts and silhouettes in heritage DVF prints.

As the enduring face of the brand, von Furstenberg is a consummate polymath, adding designer, entrepreneur, author, philanthropist, presenter and podcaster to her many talents. She is, in short, an icon. Indeed, demonstrating that her influence extends well beyond fashion, a recently wrapped exhibition – titled Woman Before Fashion – was held in her birthplace, Brussels, Belgium. There is also an accompanying book by the same name that explores von Furstenberg’s design legacy and celebrates her creative vision, while Disney’s Hulu platform will air a full-length documentary about her later this year.

Today, her brand is known globally for bold color, dynamic prints and effortless wrap silhouettes, which continue to form the backbone of her collections. On ‘the wrap’, as it has become affectionately known, von Furstenberg has been quoted as saying, “It’s more than just a dress, it’s a spirit”. Uncomplicated and unrestrictive, the design is one of the first items of female clothing to bridge the gap between comfort and style, and, as a result, has become a symbol of freedom that reflects its creator’s feminist ideals.

The cut was an (almost) overnight success. By 1976, two years after launching, it had sold one million units and von Furstenberg had firmly established her fledgling brand. The true success of the wrap dress lies in its timelessness and enduring style. Over the years, it’s been adopted by generations of women who love its ease and versatility, and worn by scores of household names, including Michelle Obama, Gwyneth Paltrow, Whitney Houston and Madonna. “It’s a dress that’s celebrating its 50th anniversary – I don’t think that’s happened to a dress before,” von Furstenberg told WWD earlier this year. For a design to remain relevant, and popular, for half a century is no mean feat.

In von Furstenberg’s own words, the SS24 collection is “speaking to the irresistible allure of new beginnings”, heralding a new era for both her brand and the much-loved silhouette. The designs feel fresh and dynamic, while cuts reflect the enduring DVF philosophy of easy elegance; these are one-and-done dresses for busy, modern women. Cue diaphanous cuts and plenty of silk jersey; wearable designs that will appeal time and again for multiple occasions. Pattern has always been central to the collections, too – von Furstenberg’s entry into the industry was via an internship at Angelo Ferretti’s printing mill factory in Como, Italy, where she learnt the art of printing – so it’s no surprise to see it playing a starring role for SS24; think deftly applied color and joy-sparking motifs.

Of course, when it came to designing Wrap 50 – the anniversary collection – DVF had a half-century-strong archive to delve into. Her signature python print (one of six core prints the designer has nicknamed ‘the six sisters’) is cast in grays and browns, highlighted with fresh white and classic black, then cut into a sleek, long-sleeved mini dress – the sort of style that will be worn on repeat for seasons to come. Meanwhile, a floor-sweeping sleeveless maxi, which is neatly reversible, showcases python one way and a remixed camo the other, deftly treading the line between contemporary and classic. The key with resurrecting archival designs is to make them relevant for a new audience – a skill that von Furstenberg is incredibly adept at: timelessness is in her design DNA, after all. The real joy in her collections, however, is that she has always placed women at the center, and continues to find the joy in fashion.