The chic sleep: Royal Champagne Hotel and Spa, France
In the heart of champagne land, a historic inn has been reimagined as a thoroughly modern spa and culinary retreat. By DELILAH KHOMO
“Great love affairs start with champagne and end with tisane [herbal tea],” wrote French novelist Honoré de Balzac, and as you sip an ice-cold glass of Leclerc Briant at breakfast at this recently opened hotel, his words couldn’t resonate more. Decadent, yes, but this is the Champagne region after all. Despite being only 80 minutes by car from Paris, it’s a relatively unexplored area of France, in part due to the lack of stylish places to stay. That is, until now: the opening of the Royal Champagne, with its Biologique Recherche spa, clubhouse vibe and loft-style rooms, has been a game-changer.
The hotel’s original incarnation as a historic coaching inn – which has hosted kings of France en route to their coronations, and where legend has it Napoleon spent a lot of time – has been completely transformed by architect Giovanni Pace, best known for his work in the region at the house of Moët & Chandon. Although now a stark architectural gem, with sensational views from every one of its 49 suites, it slots perfectly into the lush countryside, so much so that from the hotel’s sleek infinity pool, you feel like you’re going to dive straight into the Moët vineyards below.
There are also two extraordinary cellars for tastings with Chief Sommelier Daniel Pires, who brings the region to life with his knowledge of the major houses and their vintages, new smaller labels to watch and forward-thinking, biodynamic champagne makers. But the real pull is the bar and rooftop terrace, for its uninterrupted panorama of the Marne Valley to Reims and beyond. While you can drink in the sights all year round, it’s in the fall that the region truly comes alive, after the summer crowds have departed and the grape harvest is in full swing. Get there now before the moment fades away.
THE DETAILS
Book
All of the rooms are brilliantly spacious, with terraces and epic views, plus personal touches that include desks piled with great Champagne reading material like Peter Liem’s essential guide, espadrille slippers and Hermés bath products. But PORTER’s favorite is the Josephine Suite, with its incredible marble bath.
Eat
Under the direction of two-Michelin-starred chef Jean-Denis Rieubland, the croissants at breakfast alone could easily blow your daily carb allowance. But for sheer gastronomic theater, Rieubland’s five-course ‘Discovery’ dinner menu, with highlights including turbot in seaweed butter and crab with caviar, is not to be missed.
Indulge
Detox to retox in the hotel’s spa, where there is a hammam, indoor and outdoor pool, and a Biologique Recherche treatment menu – the signature custom-made facial is a godsend for parched skin.
Must do
The hotel prides itself on its access to the region’s more boutique champagne houses, so spend an inspirational morning touring the biodynamic cellar of Leclerc Briant, whose extraordinary latest creation is a cuvée called Abyss, a champagne aged at the bottom of the sea.