Ulla Johnson’s SS25 collection is an ode to Lee Krasner

“Rhapsodic” is the lyrical way that Ulla Johnson describes the work of pioneering artist Lee Krasner: “She wanted her work to breathe and come alive. They are expressions of joy and pure color.” It’s a fitting description of the abstract expressionist’s bold, vibrant paintings, which crackle and spark with color and movement – but one that could equally apply to the New York designer’s work. Johnson’s collections are poetic in their vivacity. Her free-spirited, bold creations – lavishly printed dresses, pretty-yet-polished blouses – deliver ease and impact in equal measure, inviting the wearer to embrace their inner adventurer. They are free-spirited in the truest sense of the word.

“We’re often called feminine, and it’s something that I celebrate, but I also think that there’s a great deal of strength to what we do,” says Johnson of the implicit contrasts in her collections. “The woman who comes to us wants to feel beautiful, but she also wants to feel powerful.” A similar sentiment was expressed by Krasner in her lifetime. “I don’t suppose I know what’s meant by ‘feminine’ subject matter, any more than I understand what’s meant by ‘masculine’ subject matter,” she once quipped.

The collaboration was two years in the making, but Krasner’s work has been a source of inspiration for Johnson — an avid art lover — for much longer. “Her energetic use of color and brushwork inspired the impressionistic nature of the SS23 collection a few years ago, which we showed at the Brooklyn Museum,” she explains. Furthermore, art is often the starting point for her collections. “Celebrating the hand of the artist is the thread that ties together much of what we do. From the artisanal communities we work with on our collections to the craftspeople and artists that inspire them – many of which are women, although not all. We have worked with artists previously and any chance to celebrate and uplift women, we will.”

That uplifting attitude is at the core of Johnson’s work, and why it resonates with a diverse, thoughtful and discerning group of women including Katie Holmes, Cynthia Erivo, Rebecca Hall and Beanie Feldstein (who wore one of the dresses from the Ulla Johnson x Lee Krasner collection to attend the FW25 show in February). Timeless yet always pushing her design dialogue forward, Johnson’s collections work with the women who wear them. They inspire and enrich. She says: “I firmly believe women dress for themselves – they want to look amazing for themselves. If you wear something that makes you feel you can be truly seen for who you are… well, then – my work is done.”

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