Where to see the northern lights
For one of the clearest views, head to Logger’s Lodge in Harads, in northern Sweden – a remote area of Swedish Lapland known for its strong aurora activity. To reach it, fly from Stockholm to Lulea, then drive for 1.5 hours to the village of Harads (home of the famous Treehotel). The Lodge is a further 15km from there.
Where to stay
Logger’s Lodge is a wood cabin that previously slept as many as 16 tree fellers, but has now been converted into a spacious one-bedroom retreat for two. It’s been set up to guarantee you the best northern lights sightings: the on-site owners are astronomers with a wealth of knowledge, plus there is an ‘aurora’ app to download. Outside, take a hiking excursion to the Storforsen rapids or snowshoe along the Arctic Circle; inside, there’s a sauna and thermal slippers. Relax, drink vodka and listen to jazz while you watch the logs burn. Dinner is an amazing spread of Swedish stews with red lentils and freshly baked gluten-free bread, with jugs of Lingonberry juice.
When to visit
In December, the sun comes out for three hours, but by the end of March the days are already striding towards the midnight sun, the light holding out until 9:30pm, even 10pm. After dinner at the Lodge, the aurora specialists collect you from the cabin and supply you with winter gear, including head torches, and take you out into a vast, nearby field. Here, you’ll see the sky appear to open up as the aurora sends giant spotlights into the unknown. Its scale and incandescent beauty will floor you.