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You haven’t lived until you’ve seen the Northern Lights

Glow motion
The aurora borealis shimmering over Swedish Lapland

Nothing can prepare you for seeing the breathtaking lights of the aurora borealis illuminate the sky. Here’s where, when and how to see them at their best. By SIMON ABOUD


Where to see the northern lights

For one of the clearest views, head to Logger’s Lodge in Harads, in northern Sweden – a remote area of Swedish Lapland known for its strong aurora activity. To reach it, fly from Stockholm to Lulea, then drive for 1.5 hours to the village of Harads (home of the famous Treehotel). The Lodge is a further 15km from there.

Total escape
With zero light pollution – and 5km to the closest neighbor – Logger’s Lodge is the perfect aurora viewspot
Enjoy the private wood-fired sauna and outdoor hot tub at The Lodge

Where to stay

Logger’s Lodge is a wood cabin that previously slept as many as 16 tree fellers, but has now been converted into a spacious one-bedroom retreat for two. It’s been set up to guarantee you the best northern lights sightings: the on-site owners are astronomers with a wealth of knowledge, plus there is an ‘aurora’ app to download. Outside, take a hiking excursion to the Storforsen rapids or snowshoe along the Arctic Circle; inside, there’s a sauna and thermal slippers. Relax, drink vodka and listen to jazz while you watch the logs burn. Dinner is an amazing spread of Swedish stews with red lentils and freshly baked gluten-free bread, with jugs of Lingonberry juice.

When to visit

In December, the sun comes out for three hours, but by the end of March the days are already striding towards the midnight sun, the light holding out until 9:30pm, even 10pm. After dinner at the Lodge, the aurora specialists collect you from the cabin and supply you with winter gear, including head torches, and take you out into a vast, nearby field. Here, you’ll see the sky appear to open up as the aurora sends giant spotlights into the unknown. Its scale and incandescent beauty will floor you.

River Wild
Feel the sheer force of nature at the Storforsen rapids

Need to know

Scott Dunn organizes a three-night trip to Logger’s Lodge, including full board, return flights, private airport transfer and a selection of activities.