Microneedling 101 – Here’s Everything You Need To Know

Microneedling boosts the effectiveness of your face creams, serums and lotions – and can truly transform your complexion, says LISA NIVEN-PHILLIPS


What is microneedling?

First of all, it’s important to understand the difference between professional microneedling and at-home microneedling. In both cases, it’s a process in which a device containing ultra-fine needles is used to create tiny punctures in the skin. Sound scary? It’s not – when performed by a professional, it’s all about creating a controlled skin injury, which in turn causes the skin to work harder to heal itself. As dermatologist Dr. Dendy Engelman explains, “The slight injury stimulates the growth of collagen [the scaffolding under the skin], which then improves the appearance of some scars and wrinkles.” At home, it’s an even less invasive procedure. A microneedling tool such as a derma-stamp or derma-roller creates tiny ‘microchannels’ in the skin using much smaller needles than those used in a clinic. “The purpose of at-home microneedling is to help active ingredients penetrate more deeply into the skin, resulting in better product efficacy,” Engelman continues. In short, it’s about ensuring your skincare works as hard as possible.

Is microneedling suitable for all skin types?

Those looking to tackle signs of aging or boost glow are most likely to see benefits from microneedling, while those experiencing active acne or rosacea should steer clear altogether – the device might spread bacteria around the face or worsen inflammation. It’s also crucial to use the right equipment. Make sure you’re buying a device designed for at-home use, with needles no longer than 0.25mm. And follow the instructions; don’t be tempted to use it more often than advised. Super-facialist Teresa Tarmey’s Microneedling Kit is designed to be used once weekly for 12 consecutive weeks, no more than twice a year. “I’m a big believer in little and often being far more effective than doing one or two strong clinic treatments,” she says. “Using 0.25mm needles only and following the program means it’ll never draw blood or hurt.”

How do you do microneedling at home?

Make sure the microneedling tool is thoroughly sterilized before you use it, and skin is cleansed. Apply your chosen serum first, then apply the derma-roller or derma-stamp with gentle and even pressure. “Go over the area in an asterisk motion: up and down, diagonally left up to right, and diagonally right up to left,” advises Engelman. Afterwards, massage any leftover product into the skin, and avoid makeup for 24 hours if you can. The ideal time to do microneedling is before bed, so that actives can be allowed to penetrate while you sleep. But the key thing is to not overdo it; more is not always best, as you will keep creating inflammation. Stick to no more than twice a week.

Which skincare products should you use?

“Facial serums will be most effective in delivering to the cellular level, as they have the highest concentration of active ingredients and have smaller molecules that allow actives to penetrate further,” says Engelman. Consider hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and peptides, but steer clear of retinol and vitamin C for a couple of days while the skin heals, as they might cause irritation. Tarmey’s kit features a peptide blend for use during the treatment itself, and then she recommends following up with products known for soothing and moisturizing. “You can get dryness in the rejuvenation process, so focus on hydrating products,” she explains. Spending 10 to 15 minutes with a hydrating, hyaluronic acid-based mask after microneedling is a great way to calm skin while boosting moisture.

What results can you expect?

If you’re already using good products, microneedling is a great way to get the most out of them, whether it’s for tackling fine lines, boosting hydration or improving tone. All the benefits you already expect from your skincare, just multiplied. And on top of that, some serious glow.


The model featured in this story is not associated with NET-A-PORTER and does not endorse it or the products shown