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PORTER Postcard: The Athens Riviera

Long overshadowed by the Greek islands, the Athens Riviera is emerging as the Mediterranean’s chicest escape. VICTORIA NEWTON-SYMS reveals why it deserves a place on your travel radar

Lifestyle
Explore Athens’ ancient monuments, such as The Temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion

Athens can get hectic. It’s not just the crowds surging the Acropolis; it’s the labyrinthine, bougainvillea-lined streets of Plaka, the famous flea markets of Monastiraki and the vibrant, chaotic bars of Psirri. Which is what makes the Athens Riviera such a haven: a coastal retreat with a long stretch of pine-fringed beachfront, yet barely a 25-minute taxi ride from the city center. If you’ve flown into Athens to go island-hopping, the Riviera is the perfect place to acclimate for a night or two before sailing off across the Aegean Sea. But it is also a vacation destination in its own right. With a slower pace that feels worlds away from the capital, you could easily spend a week here soaking up the Hellenic culture or simply soaking up the sun. Of course, Athenians have always known this, but in recent years the area has steadily captured the attention of the global jet set. From Vouliagmeni to Glyfada, a new wave of design-forward hotels, see-and-be-seen restaurants and buzzy beach clubs has transformed the Riviera into one of Europe’s most inviting summer escapes. Here’s our edit of where to stay, eat, shop and switch off…

Four Seasons Astir Palace is the place to stay in the Athens Riviera, located a stone’s throw from Astir Marina

The hotel

There’s a reason Four Seasons Astir Palace has become the premier address on the Athens Riviera. Set among fragrant pine trees on a private peninsula in Vouliagmeni, the resort feels wonderfully removed from the intensity of central Athens – more Cycladic island retreat than city hotel. Village-like in scale, it sprawls across 74 acres, yet somehow still manages to retain a deeply personal level of service. Days can be spent enjoying the resort’s three private beaches, restorative spa treatments, long alfresco lunches and sunset cocktails overlooking the Saronic Gulf. There is plenty to keep active travelers occupied too, from tennis and water sports to yoga and Pilates classes, while the spa has beachside treatment cabanas where massages take place to the sound of lapping waves.

There are several ways to experience the resort, depending on your mood. The Nafsika building is the social heart of the hotel, home to the buzzy pool scene and many of the restaurants, while the Arion building next door offers a quieter, more serene atmosphere centered around the sleek spa. For something even more secluded, the elegantly appointed beach bungalows feel like private residences hidden among the pines.

Enjoy Greek cuisine alfreso with a table at Taverna 37, Four Seasons Astir Palace

The restaurant scene

Start with Astir Palace’s Taverna 37, the effortlessly chic Greek taverna where a table beneath the pergola, right at the water’s edge, is the one to request. Then there’s Michelin-starred Pelagos, where chef Luca Piscazzi creates refined tasting menus inspired by seasonal ingredients and the flavors of the Mediterranean Sea. For something more cosmopolitan, Matsuhisa Athens brings Nobu’s signature Japanese-Peruvian cuisine to the Riviera, drawing a glamorous crowd after sunset.

In nearby Vouliagmeni, Greek restaurant Patio offers modern plates in a serene garden setting, while Moorings in the Astir Marina remains the classic spot for leisurely lunches and cocktails by the sea.

The dish

The food is a huge part of the draw of coming to Greece, and while you may think you know the classics, the dolmades (stuffed vine leaves) at Taverna 37 are unlike any you’ve tried before. Served hot rather than cold, they arrive drenched in avgolemono – a velvety egg-and-lemon sauce so good it will permanently ruin all future dolmades for you. It goes beautifully with grilled meat and fish, or as a star dish on its own.

The drink

Greek wine has undergone a transformation in recent years, with a new wave of producers creating bottles that rival Europe’s most celebrated vineyards. Don’t miss trying assyrtiko, the volcanic white variety native to Santorini, known for its saline minerality, citrus notes and signature salty finish. Red-wine drinkers should seek out a xinomavro – Greece’s bold, food-friendly answer to nebbiolo. Central Athens has a great wine bar scene with places such as Heteroclito, By The Glass and Wine Is Fine showcasing some of the country’s finest independent producers.

The cultural excursions

Don’t miss the Acropolis and the Acropolis Museum if you haven’t visited them before, but arrive early to beat both the crowds and the midday heat. Four Seasons can organize a private guide, which is well worth it for a deeper understanding of the city’s layered history. For something even more memorable, book a helicopter tour for an extraordinary bird’s-eye views of Athens’ most iconic landmarks – from the 2,300-year-old Panathenaic Stadium and the Parthenon to the clifftop Temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion.

The hot table in town

Linou Soumpasis & Co. describes itself as a ‘new-age taverna’ and occupies a former candle factory in the central Psirri district. The interiors are a minimalist’s dream – all whitewashed walls, stainless steel and contemporary art by local creatives – while the menu offers elevated takes on classics. It’s the sort of place where stylish Athenians linger over long lunches and late dinners with friends.

For something lively after dark, book a table at Pharaoh in Exarchia, an effortlessly cool restaurant and bar where natural wines, vinyl records and beautifully simple Mediterranean plates have made it one of the city’s hardest reservations to secure.

The shopping

Whether it’s browsing luxury boutiques and concept stores in Kolonaki or combing Monastiraki’s flea markets for antique treasures, Athens rewards those who shop well. Pick up handmade leather sandals, locally crafted ceramics or another basket bag for your summer collection. And if you don’t feel like venturing far from the coast, Astir Marina is home to an impeccably curated lineup of designer brands, making it dangerously easy to justify a last-minute resortwear purchase.

The look

By day, beat the heat in crisp white linens, oversized sunglasses, a sun hat and leather sandals that can take you from yacht decks to city strolls. Come evening, the mood calls for fluid silk dresses and sculptural gold jewelry worthy of a Slim Aarons photograph.

The interiors inspiration

The city’s design stores are full of native olive wood: hand-carved bowls, serving spoons and trinket boxes. You might not be able to fill a suitcase with them, but once home, let their warmth and tactility inspire you to incorporate more natural wood into your interiors.

The Acropolis and its monuments are a must-see during a trip to Greece

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