Look To Carven For Polished Pragmatism
As Louise Trotter takes the helm, the Parisian label founded in 1945 relaunches with thoughtfully designed wardrobe staples that will endure
“Women lead busy lives,” says Louise Trotter, the newly appointed creative director of Carven, who’s launching her debut collection for spring/summer 2024. Their clothes, she says, need to reflect this fact – and provide sartorial support from the ground up. From dawn to dusk, women need their closets to offer “a beautiful simplicity,” she says. It’s about “quality and enduring style.”
Trotter, a British designer renowned for her polished pragmatism, has adopted this as her manifesto for the relaunch of Carven — the womenswear label that was established by Madame Carven in Paris in 1945. Each thoughtful piece has been meticulously considered to offer maximum wearability from work to weekend, from the fluid cotton poplin shirts in elongated silhouettes (pair with stonewashed jeans and loafers for brunch; come Monday, wear with tailored trousers), to sandy-toned, straight-cut midi skirts that are just as appropriate for a vacation as they are a business meeting.
With a focus on refinement and fit, Trotter’s first collection for Carven is an artful and accomplished take on the building blocks of a modern wardrobe. With its trans-seasonal nature, outerwear is a natural focus. Trench coats – a longtime staple of the spring wardrobe – are replete with looser fits that can accommodate autumn layering; double-breasted woolen coats with sharp shoulders are a contemporary take on classic men’s tailoring; hoodies are given a Parisian polish, cut to a parachute silhouette and crafted from silk blends that bring a sheen — the definition of smart casual.
That similar silken luster features on voluminous golden maxi skirts and angular jackets in hues of daffodil that bring a luxurious feel to nighttime wardrobes — and an ode to old-time glamor that channels after-dark strolls by the Seine in the ’50s, mixed with a dash of modernism for Trotter’s signature modern touch. Corset dresses with sweetheart necklines pay homage to femininity and romance, but packs a ’90s Wall Street punch when worn over an architectural button-up shirt for a look that feels fresh and minimalist. Heels, too, feature this sleek sensibility, with a deep-V vamp that elongates the silhouette — especially in a fawn-colored leather. With a curbed-off toe, this comfortable, chic style is available in flats or with a cubed low heel; pair them with ankle socks for a sweet, insouciant look.
For Trotter, who grew up in northern England and has built a career designing hardworking separates, smart-casual is another manifesto. And for her debut Carven collection, this manifests most profoundly in tops which riff on the classic tennis polo silhouette, but rendered in super-fine wools with a structured collar, they prove an easy alternative to the button-up shirt. Polo tops in hues of sky blue will feel like a new season palate cleanser when paired with crisp whites, while teaming it with navy tailoring will offer a cool take on the classic blue chambray.
“Ever in pursuit of ultimate wearability, the designer’s palette is distinctly elegant and enduring, with pops of color that inject a sense of energy
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Ever in pursuit of ultimate wearability, the designer’s palette is distinctly elegant and enduring, with pops of color that inject a sense of energy. Shades of white, bone and nude sit adjacent to rich navys and classic black — tones to take you from spring to winter with ease, year after year. Interest comes in the form of texture, where silks are offset by gauzy chiffons to bring unexpected notes: think loose midi skirts that feature a refined translucency, bringing a sexier sensibility to a classic office staple. For evening, confidently liberate the limbs and pair with an elongated tunic and heels; remix it by layering a colored slip skirt or simple black tights for a day-appropriate look.
This sense of contrast is at play in silhouettes, too. Style oversized tailoring with more form-fitting skirts; tuck billowy shirts into high-waisted trousers — this Carven collection is designed for women to have fun with, to discover a sense of sartorial play and to both inspire and incite confidence each time you step out of the house.
“This Carven collection is designed for women to have fun with, to discover a sense of sartorial play, and to inspire and incite confidence each time you step out of the house
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Accessories, meanwhile, offer signature practicality. Elegant top-handle handbags are crafted from buttery soft leather that harks back to ’50s femininity, while oversized clutches in squashy silhouettes are capacious enough to fit the day’s essentials and then some, while the pillowy construction makes it feel like a comforting ally to bring along on a morning commute.
From work to weekend, dawn to dusk, Trotter’s Carven debut for spring/summer 2024 has your closet needs all wrapped up – this season and beyond.