How To Style Colored Gems

While there can be something extremely satisfying about opening the doors of a closet to find a neatly curated edit of monochrome stalwarts that all chime together, when it comes to fine jewelry, the real joy comes from indulging in unadulterated color. While a jewelry box filled to the brim with white diamonds and gold can look mesmerizing, it simply won’t hit the same mark as a treasure trove packed with juicy gems that speak to every swoosh of the rainbow.

This is, perhaps, due to the fact that each colored stone is uniquely different from the next – and no matter how experienced a gemologist or avid collector you are, Mother Nature will never fail to keep surprising you with new shades. Much like our closets, the psychology of color remains the same – bright hues will feel energizing, while cool tones can feel more tranquil. The trick when injecting color into your jewelry collection is to choose pieces that speak to you. Perhaps they uplift you, perhaps they carry potent meaning, or you simply fall in love with a particular stone for its ‘personality’ – and yes, that is a thing.

Here, we decode the colored gems that you should consider adding to your collection for a little extra pizzazz…

Green is a secondary color on the color wheel – a blend of yellow and blue – and different gems lean to different ends of the scale. A peridot displays a lime-like hue, while a prized emerald will look greener than green, erring towards blue. Green is associated with renewal and abundance, but it is also loaded with cultural symbolism, often connected to luck or envy. Wear Suzanne Kalan’s emerald and diamond cocktail ring and the latter is inevitable – it showcases a striking 1.91-carat emerald. Green stones marry well with vintage design codes, such as blackened gold, Art Deco settings and enamel detailing, so adding an emerald or two into your ringscape is easy – but be sure to stick to one base tone of metal.

Blue and violet hues are often associated with royalty and carry connotations of magic and wonder. Highly emotive colors, they evoke serenity, dignity and peace – and they tend to suit all skin tones. There is an abundance of natural gems in blue and purple tones, with sapphires, tanzanites, aquamarine, topaz and lapis lazuli all offering a different hue. Paler stones, such as the aquamarine in Garrard’s ‘1735’ ring, will glitter when set in white gold, while deeper hues come to life in rich yellow gold, as seen in Yvonne Léon’s dainty chain necklace. If traditional blue sapphires feel too safe, consider a punchy tanzanite with a purple lilt – Jacquie Aiche’s chunky cocktail ring is a perfect first foray.

Red is a primary color that we principally connect to love, passion and high energy. Perhaps the most attention-grabbing shade, red gemstones aren’t as popular as cooler blue and green tones, but in certain cultures they signify luck and purity. Red jewels require confident styling, so use them sparingly to add an audacious accent of color to your look. The rubies in Kamyen’s striking choker are set against white enamel to make the red really pop, while Marlo Laz’s ‘Starburst’ garnet necklace features a halo of white diamonds in contrasting black rhodium-plated settings to complement the central stone.

Rainbow gemstone designs never fail to spark joy, but they also serve as emblems of unity and diversity for many communities and faiths. They often feature different types of gems, perfect for those who believe in different crystal properties, too. Suzanne Kalan’s ‘Fireworks’ bracelet features delicate pastel sapphires that are as charming as cake sprinkles, while those feeling braver can look to Amrapali – its ‘Mini Rajasthan’ necklace frames each bold sapphire with a white-diamond halo. Those with plenty of piercings can curate a gem rainbow that ascends the ear, while rainbow rings are an easy way to liven up a wedding jewelry stack. The only rule? There are no rules.