Modern Romance

It was fitting that Brunello Cucinelli christened his FW18 collection Folk Alchemy as he took bohemian references and recast them in modern silhouettes. The ’70s obsession with texture and tailoring was Cucinelli’s starting point this season; interestingly, it was in this very era that the brand debuted. When it launched in 1978, the eponymous label was born of a desire to make the perfect cashmere sweater. Since achieving that goal, it has grown to become one of Italy’s most revered heritage brands. But for FW18, any overtly retro references were expertly subverted via sporty silhouettes or reinvented via sleekly tailored shapes. Take the foundations of the collection: a selection of pantsuits and double-breasted jackets in vintage-look velvets, leather and corduroy, that felt ultra-modern.

It wasn’t just the shapes that added a contemporary twist to this collection – its bold textural play ensured a sense of newness, too. Cucinelli was evidently in a playful mood as he conjured this textural masterclass; as a designer who is renowned for his luxurious materials (and known as the “king of cashmere”), this season, he created a unique synergy by mixing languid silks with chunky knits and tiered tulle with soft velvet. The autumnal color palette adds a sense of seasonal warmth – of course, winter is party season too, and Cucinelli’s hits of rich turquoise enliven the collection, reminding us that his womenswear line is eclectic, dynamic and brimming with sartorial spontaneity.

The reason Cucinelli’s materials are so impeccable is because every stitch of clothing is skillfully handmade by artisans in Italy – mostly in Solomeo, a peaceful 14th century Umbrian village. While faultless fabrics are the brand’s hallmark, the label is also celebrated for its ethical approach to production and its philosophical DNA. This soulful attitude is evident in the hero knits that defined the collection: multicolored mohair, alpaca, and extra-fine cashmere came together as elevated cardigans and oversized knits. As luxurious as they are comfortable, you could easily wear one of the cardigans over a silk camisole with tailored pants by day, then dress the look up come evening with heels – you’ll feel like your night was spent elegantly ensconced in the sartorial equivalent of a hug.

For those seeking something more sensual for after-hours, Cucinelli delivered in the form of beautifully bias-cut dresses and asymmetric skirts that drape softly to flatter and emphasize the feminine form. Strapped cummerbunds also lend a sculptural feel to the tailored pieces, easily transitioning suiting from day to night.

By thinking nostalgically but looking forward through a modern lens, Cucinelli has captured the essence of exactly how women want to dress right now. His FW18 collection has a timeless appeal, attracting women who dress only for themselves.