Fashion Fundamentals

After weeks of decking ourselves out in sequins, festive sweaters and towering stilettos, the new year often heralds a time to slip back into our sartorial comfort zone with enveloping knitwear, comfy sportswear, laid-back denim and relaxed tailoring – otherwise known as our closet foundations.

Of course, January can come with a compulsion to create lofty resolutions, too. Yet taking a ‘start as you mean to go on’ stand might just be more effective this season – because when it comes to your wardrobe, one of the smartest moves is to invest in timeless, versatile, elegant and inherently ‘you’ pieces that will form the basis of your fashion fundamentals.

If the notion of a ‘forever closet’ sounds hyperbolic, consider that Bella Hadid wore a 26-year-old Tom Ford-era Gucci dress on this year’s Cannes Film Festival red carpet – an iconic piece the same age as Hadid herself. The slinky, white, long-sleeved dress (complete with a hip cutout revealing the matching G-string beneath, in true ’90s form) is as covetable now as it was when Carolyn Murphy first slinked down Ford’s fall ’96 runway in it, and it reminds us – to paraphrase the late, great Yves Saint Laurent – that while trends can be transient, style is everlasting.

The result? Investment pieces have become future assets, while much-loved and cared-for items can be reimagined as family heirlooms that are passed down to be styled anew by the next generation. There is something truly thrilling about finding pieces you want to cherish forever, be it a gorgeous Gucci gown or a sleek Saint Laurent blazer. Consider your own wardrobe and there may well be shoes that predate friendships, handbags you’ve loved longer than your other half, or tailoring that has seen you through more than one job move.

Tailoring in 2023 comes with an irreverent twist, whether it’s exaggerated pointy collars at The Row or modern takes on the classic three-piece suit at Co. “What is wonderful about these pieces is that not only do they look strong and chic together as a set, but they can be worn separately as well,” says Stephanie Danan, Co’s founder and creative director. “As a set, it’s a statement, so it’s great for a special occasion such as a presentation, dinner party, or even a great day event on colder days. As separates, I would style them in so many ways: the oversized pant with a second-skin Co essential sweater and a men’s belt; the jacket with a pair of cigarette or oversized pleated black pants or black jeans; the vest with a pencil skirt and boots…”

Neat vests were the breakout star of summer 2022 – the trick to take yours into the new year is to play with proportions and layer them over long, loose shirts and beneath boxy blazers. Pants are pleasingly languid and pool over loafers, or sneakers if you prefer. A classic wool coat cut on the roomier side is a worthy investment, as it allows for plenty of layering potential beneath, and so will traverse the seasons – The Row’s ‘Diana’ coat is as timeless as they come.

Content creator Neelam Ahooja has carefully curated her elevated, minimalist closet, which comprises largely of her favored brand, The Row. Working with a muted color palette, she also utilizes layering to add complexity to an outfit. “Layers leave a lot of room to play and explore with textures and shapes and colors,” she says. Her top layering tips? “Wear tone on tone, don’t mix too many prints, and add pops of color to black. The key is to make sure each piece is well tailored, because if they aren’t, you end up looking like a hot mess.” The very essence of closet foundations is, of course, in the name. “It’s never about one thing; it is strength in numbers,” says Barron. “If you are wearing a suit, consider what lies beneath. A tank top (barely seen), then a shirt with an exaggerated collar on top, followed by a colored knit, and finally the suit [is ideal].”