New Nostalgia
With
Maty Fall
When the mercury rises, reach for uplifting pieces that will take you on a riotous romp down memory lane, says GEORGIE LUCAS. Cue splashy ’60s prints, bold ’80s color and standout ’00s silhouettes that have stood the test of time
Eat, beach, sleep, repeat may be the wanderlust mantra of these warmer months, but your closet needn’t consist exclusively of swimwear and cover-ups to conjure a sunny mentality. “Summer is the time to live your fashion fantasy,” says Kay Barron, NET-A-PORTER’s fashion director. “This season has taken that idea and run with it. Think color, in-your-face prints, stop-and-stare silhouettes, crazy accessories and dresses split sky-high.” Sartorially speaking, who dares wins right now.
“Invest in styles that will transcend seasons and feel a little nostalgic,” adds Libby Page, NET-A-PORTER’s market director. “Look for pieces you know you’ll still be drawn to in the future.” Traditionally, forecasters worked to the ‘20-year rule’ as a predictor of what will come next – the idea being that it takes roughly two decades for a style to come back ‘in’. The return of all things ’00s suggests this theory may still have legs, but today’s collections are a melting pot of vintage influences, too, with designers finding reassurance in nostalgia and revisiting iconic styles of the past to inject a sense of joy into dressing. “This summer is all about having fun with fashion,” confirms Page.
“This season’s HOTTEST looks are a compilation of previous decades’ GREATEST HITS”
Color therapy
The fastest route to a closet dopamine hit is color. At Jean Paul Gaultier, Florence Tétier’s collection directly referenced the maison’s kaleidoscopic ’00s archives, applying a vibrant, instantly recognizable floral motif to a selection of mesh tops, figure-skimming pants and splashy swimsuits. The result? These eminently wearable pieces have shot to the top of every editor’s wish list. “A mesh top is the perfect item to play with styling,” says Page. “Layer it under a dress or style it with a bralette.” If in doubt, ground the vibrant florals with denim – try tucking one of Jean Paul Gaultier’s vivid, figure-skimming designs into Givenchy’s two-tone jeans, or pair the former’s psychedelic ‘Morphing’ swimsuit with Wardrobe.NYC’s cult wide-legged pants. Alternatively, for a single shot of head-turning color, look to Acne Studios’ standout runway top – rendered in scarlet, it steals a march on the red obsession that’s set to be everywhere come fall.
Retro favorites
This season’s hottest looks are a compilation of previous decades’ greatest hits, and if ‘one and done’ is your sartorial philosophy, make a ’90s slip dress your go-to piece. “It’s the easiest way to get dressed in the heat,” says Barron. “A black slip dress is my June-to-September staple for almost everything – it has never let me down.” JW Anderson’s slinky satin-jersey style is just the ticket, and Barron’s advice is to “pair it with a chunky flat sandal for day and swap for a strappy high heel for night”.
Flared pants are also back on the agenda, with Alaïa injecting an ’80s slant into its Archetypes collection. Exaggerated, crocheted bell bottoms and a stretch-knit top not only celebrate the revered Tunisian designer’s most iconic designs, but satisfy this season’s all-black mood, too. For a similar silhouette cast in bold color, consider Camille Miceli’s collection for Pucci, which revives the ‘Maddalena’ motif on cropped, frilled pants. Fusing house heritage with the designer’s own sense of fun, the piece perfectly captures the freewheeling spirit of the print’s ’60s heyday.
All-denim everything
Denim never goes out of style, but in SS23, it’s stolen the spotlight. “Denim is perennial,” says Barron, “but you can really highlight it in summer, and wear it in a more interesting way.” In terms of jean silhouettes, look back to the ’90s. “The low-slung waist has had a bad reputation, but I love its return – it’s so comfortable and the relaxed fit makes jeans feel instantly cooler,” says Barron. “This season, the denim story goes well beyond jeans – in fact, the utility fabric is the answer to most style dilemmas. “Flares, bralettes, oversized jackets and minis all have a nostalgic but everlasting appeal,” says Page. If you buy just one denim piece, though, make it a maxi skirt (hello, JW Anderson’s high-waisted design). This classic silhouette illustrates that the joy of timeless denim lies in its versatility and wearability.
Elsewhere, the functional nature of denim makes it a natural antidote to the delicate lace and barely-there silk of this season’s lingerie mood. Not quite brave enough to wear your underwear as outerwear? Enter the crop top. “I’m drawn to denim crops this year – it’s definitely the ’90s child in me,” says Barron. We love Loewe + Paula’s Ibiza’s anagram-embellished designs for vacation staples. Indeed, the cult collaboration delivers summer favorites inspired by island life, and the collection notes advise wearing pieces “in an island scenario, or to give an escapist vibration to summer in the city”. Sign this writer up.
“If you want to NOD to the Y2K trend, ACCESSORIES are the PERFECT way to dip your toe in”
A power finish
Finally, embrace accessorizing – this is where the ’00s influence really comes into its own. “If you want to nod to the Y2K trend, accessories are the perfect way to dip your toe in,” says Page. “Slingbacks, kitten heels, oversized basket bags, headscarves and logo belts are a melting pot of nostalgia.” See Givenchy and The Row for tuck-and-go shoulder bags that conjure the very best of the early 2000s – and will see you through for decades to come. Meanwhile, retro-inspired slingbacks by Alaïa, Versace and Givenchy balance comfort with style and will make everything from eveningwear to daytime looks pop. The real takeaway? “Have fun,” says Barron. “What’s the worst that can happen?”
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