How To Master The Gem-Maxxing Trend
Calling all maximalists: the chicest way to wear gems this season is artfully layered, mixed and matched, says CHARLIE BOYD
If you aren’t gem-maxxing already, you’re missing out on a major moment. The gem-maxxing trend has been steadily burgeoning on social media for the last couple of years, but it has now gone all-out viral, as everything from ornate bags and shoes to phone cases and even cakes (see Kylie Jenner’s jewel-encrusted birthday cake) are encrusted with gems, while the fall/winter ’26 runways shone with an abundance of glittering stones at Prada, Dolce&Gabbana and Chanel.
The designers to know
When it comes to fine jewelry, the trick is to invest in semi-precious jewels in rainbow hues that deliver maximum impact and layer them with confidence. Certain designers excel in harnessing such gems, playing with myriad crystals and hardstones to create eye-catching color combinations, including Octavia Elizabeth, who regularly uses tourmalines, topaz, chrysoprase and tanzanites to striking effect, such as those in her ‘Cobblestone Gemmed’ earrings.
Irene Neuwirth – best known for her ‘Gemmy Gem’ and ‘Gumball’ collections – is a designer with a wealth of colored stone at her fingertips, from pale morganites paired with amethysts in a pair of elegant drop earrings, to a saccharine shade of aquamarine in her ‘Heroic’ pendant. And David Webb is another much-coveted jewelry brand known for its bold, maximalist and highly sculptural designs.
However, gem-maxxing doesn’t necessarily mean you always have to pick loud tones. If you wish to stick to a pastel color palette, the effect can be just as exciting. Jia Jia offers plenty of delicately hued pieces that can be layered with abandon.
VALENTINO GARAVANIHypergoutte gold-tone, crystal and resin earrings
The key pieces
Generally speaking, it is easier to achieve a gem-maxxing effect when you choose strong, impossible-to-miss statement jewels. The traditional Big Three – rubies, sapphires and emeralds – are deeply saturated and will make this task light work. Marlo Laz’s ‘Lexi’ rhodolite and diamond earrings would work as the perfect crescendo drop to a stack of glittering studs in autumnal tones, while the New York-based designer’s indicolite and diamond bombé-style cocktail ring can’t fail to be noticed, standing loud and proud upon the finger. There are no real color pairing rules to gem-maxxing – contrasting, clashing and complementary colors are all equally effective in creating a maximalist look, but volume of pieces is non-negotiable. If you’re unsure, simply pop on some more.
Cocktail rings are, of course, a key piece in your arsenal, thanks to their oversized gems and unapologetic silhouettes – Ileana Makri’s striking green amethyst design heroes its central, show-stopping stone with a contrasting edge of diamonds that provide a scintillating halo. Don’t be afraid to wear multiple oversized pieces across a ringscape either; stacks of slim bands can be punctuated with a couple of large solitaires, while pinky rings will add extra touches of scintillation to every last finger.
For necklace styling, it’s important to not just play with color, but riff on playful proportions, too. A long Y-necklace with spaced-out gems, such as Jia Jia’s blue topaz style, allows for further pieces to be layered on top – without gems scratching or becoming tangled. Meanwhile, the brand’s bolder bead style necklaces – such as this opal and smoky quartz design – can offer a one-and-done option for the décolletage, allowing you to add statement earrings instead. While technically there’s no such thing as ‘too much’ when it comes to gem-maxxing, it is still important to allow each piece – and yourself – the space to shine.
VALENTINO GARAVANIHypergoutte embellished gold-tone necklace
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