After Dark
With
Alix Bouthors
Whatever your approach to party dressing – whether that’s an ultra-polished LBD, a hint of sparkle or the classic ‘jeans and a nice top’ stalwart – this holiday season’s best evening looks bring a cool, sultry edge to the mix by way of gauzy, ethereal layers, polished puffers and refined flashes of silver and gold. It’s the understated way to dazzle, says GRACE COOK
The festive season is upon us, and there’s a slick, sensual mood in the air. The nights are darker, temperatures are cooler, but our wardrobes are hotting up with polished pieces that bring an understated luxe to after-dark outfits – think tactile leathers that toughen up separates by lending a biker edge to evening attire, oversized tailoring meshed with miniature proportions, and occasional sequins to add a refined dazzle.
This season’s vibe is chic and sexy, as demonstrated so beautifully by French model Alix Bouthors in our latest PORTER cover story. “I’ve dived head-first into the sheer trend this season and plan to incorporate gauzy skirts and tops into my party outfits,” says Harriet Haskell-Thomas, NET-A-PORTER’s global head of styling. For an elevated take on the trend, she advises pairing Saint Laurent’s sheer turtleneck with fluid, wide-legged pants.
With such superfine fibers, good underwear is a prerequisite, according to Haskell-Thomas. Look to labels like Skims for slinky briefs that will feel invisible under fitted layers. And for something to layer underneath a sheer top? Her preferred brand here is Else, whose exquisitly handmade bras are too beautiful to not be on show – its stretch-tulle soft-cup bra, with its sheer, crop-top silhouette, will slip seamlessly underneath gauzy tops and, daringly, be layered solo under blazers.
Read on to discover the holiday essentials for a glamorous season ahead…
The nights are DARKER, temperatures are cooler, but our wardrobes are hotting up with POLISHED pieces that bring an understated LUXE to after-dark outfits
The occasion dress
No festive season would be complete without a fail-safe LBD – the one you reach for when a last-minute formal-party invite comes in, or simply on occasions when you want to feel your very best. And, this season, there’s a silhouette that strikes gold with the hottest trends of the moment. Michael Lo Sordo’s exquisite maxi dress hits just the right note of boudoir glamour with its sheer, lacy fabrication and delicate spaghetti straps, while the brand’s fluid silky maxi silhouette has enduring wardrobe mileage. Jazz it up with statement earrings, advises Kay Barron, fashion director at NET-A-PORTER. Barron also thinks adding a gold shoe to bring a “flash of metallic” will amp up the party mood. Meanwhile, JW Anderson’s puffball mini dress feels like a futuristic take on the classic – layer over jeans and a crisp white tee for smart-casual parties, while a pair of party flats will bring a cool edge to night-time looks.
Wide-leg pants
Looking for party-ready pieces that can just as easily be transformed into your office-hours closet, too? A pair of wide-leg pants will serve you well this season. “Wide legs have the ability to look laid-back and ultra-sophisticated at the same time,” says Marianne McDonald, creative director of LA label Citizens of Humanity. Fluid, tailored silhouettes are a refined choice for day-to-dark dressing: by day, they’re effortlessly worn with a chunky knit or a crisp shirt. After hours, McDonald suggests styling with a slingback, “for a look that says effortless and sexy at the same time”. Simply slip off your layers and pair with a sleek tank for an understated look – keep color to a minimum and add dazzle in the form of understated jewelry or elongated opera gloves, which will add a touch of evening glamour. Saint Laurent and Balenciaga’s tailored silhouettes are just the ticket, while a pair of sturdy wide-legged jeans will prove the ultimate choice for bringing an ounce of smart-casual cool to each after-dark look.
“Wide-leg pants have the ability to look LAID-BACK and ultra-SOPHISTICATED at the same time”
Marianne McDonald, creative director at Citizens of Humanity
The mini skirt
Dancing legs at the ready: “hemlines are short, short, short this season,” says Haskell-Thomas. And a mini skirt in tactile fabrics – think suede, leather and sparkles – is an easy way to turn classic daytime knitwear into a cool after-dark look. Look to cult labels such as Khaite for versatile leather minis that will prove a staple well beyond the party season. Long-sleeved tops balance out the proportions and “feel more elevated”, according to Haskell-Thomas. Party-ready sleeves that are perfectly paired with slick, shorter skirts come from Jacquemus this season: its cold-shouldered taffeta top and dress both bring an air of ’80s prom, with voluminous mutton sleeves, while the cropped length ensures the mood stays sultry. And Clio Peppiatt’s shimmering, hand-embroidered dress is adorned with thousands of sparkling crystals, negating the need for accessories. Haskell-Thomas recommends teaming with knee-high boots, which “give minis a wintry twist and will make any dress feel party-ready,” she says. Standout styles this season come from cult brand Paris Texas, especially in croc-effect leathers that will amp up textures.
Fail-safe go-tos that you can slip on without much thought are FUNDAMENTAL – their EASY ability to be switched-up and STYLED myriad ways will avoid fashion fatigue
Elevated tanks
With so many parties, dinners and gatherings to go to each December, it can become difficult to maintain momentum with outfit-planning. That’s why having fail-safe go-tos that you can slip on without much thought are fundamental – their easy ability to be switched-up and styled myriad ways will avoid fashion fatigue and will prove palate-cleansing on nights when simplicity is your mood of the moment. Saint Laurent’s racer-back tank top is a case in point: it’s refined enough to feel elegant at the dinner table, but with its low front and loose cut, is a no-fuss option. And while the white tank is a forever summer favorite, Bottega Veneta proves there’s no reason not to incorporate it into your winter wardrobe as well: slip it on with a mini and sparkly flats for a festive take on the ballerina trend. And those looking for something a little more lavish, look no further than Tom Ford. The brand’s buttery-leather sleeveless tank is a cool take that will dress up a pair of jeans. “I regularly fall back on the classic ‘jeans and a nice top’ combo for less-formal evenings,” says Haskell-Thomas. “I love the high-low mix and ease of a pair of jeans, spruced up for a party with something ultra-feminine.”
“I love the high-low mix and EASE of a pair of JEANS, spruced up for a party with something ultra-FEMININE”
Harriet Haskell-Thomas, global head of styling at NET-A-PORTER
Scintillating sparkles
No festive wardrobe would be complete without a sparkle but, this season, it’s best adopted in understated amounts – bringing just a hint of pizzazz to night-time looks. Barron loves giving her tried-and-tested closet favorites a “little party spin” by adding scintillating accessories to her year-round staples. “I’m not a sequin-dress or feather-sleeve kind of dresser when it comes to parties,” Barron says. She suggests teaming Rabanne’s disco-ready bag with more muted, monochromatic pieces. “Black is never boring, but metallics lend a little something at this time of year. A little black dress can be given a party-ready hit with embellished crystal flats or big and brilliant earrings.” A sparkly mini skirt from 16Arlington is perfectly paired with a tucked-in knit and sheer tights on cooler days, while Christopher Esber’s sparkle-studded party flats will bring hours of dance-floor fun without the added pinch of heels – ideal for a jam-packed holiday calendar.
A transitional jacket
One of the most undisputed facts about the holiday season is that no outfit is complete without a warming winter layer. But it can be difficult to strike a balance between outerwear that keeps you cozy as well as looking chic with dressier outfits. Enter the polished puffer. Voluminous in silhouette and packed with layers of insulation to boot, Saint Laurent’s leather rendition of this cold-weather staple will look sleek paired with mini skirts or worn over slinky layers. In the market for something a little more refined? A smart, sharp-shouldered blazer will perfectly balance out contrasting proportions and hemlines, pairing just as well with mini skirts as with fluid maxi-dress silhouettes. “The androgynous blazer always looks cool thrown over a mini dress,” says Haskell-Thomas. Her top tip: wear it oversized, “so the hemlines match”. Sacai’s cropped iteration, with utilitarian-style pocketing and a peplum frill, seamlessly mixes boardroom style with an after-hours mood. Come daytime, it can easily dress up jeans and a tee, too.