Why Emerald Is The Gemstone Of The Moment
While diamonds tend to dominate red carpets and left-hand ring shots, emeralds offer organic elegance and head-turning color, making them a popular choice for summer jewelry styling, says CHARLIE BOYD
Marylin Monroe famously sang that diamonds are a girl’s best friend, but exceptional emeralds are in fact far rarer – and often far more valuable – than their clear, sparkling counterparts. Emeralds can’t, however, be evaluated according to the same ‘four Cs’ criteria as diamonds. While carat size remains relevant, their color, clarity and even their cut credentials differ greatly to diamonds. Emeralds are rarely clear and feature fascinating ‘jardins’ within their depths, which resemble blooming foliage. An emerald’s color is judged on its vividness rather than its proximity to pure bright white; and while emeralds can be faceted like diamonds, they are often polished in rounded, cabochon silhouettes because of their much softer composition.
A flurry of contemporary designers have been creating more emerald designs due to the gemstone’s rising popularity. Indeed, emeralds are increasingly appearing on the red carpet, most recently with Cardi B choosing an extravagant emerald suite by Kamyen to wear to this year’s Met Gala. Naomi Campbell and Kendall Jenner are also firm admirers of these luscious gemstones. As well as their A-list appeal, emeralds make a perfect partner for yellow gold – and are one of the easiest stones to work into a wardrobe that is filled with neutral and monochrome tones.
So what are the key pieces to look out for? If your #neckmess normally comprises plain gold and diamonds, start small by finding a gold necklace with an emerald accent. Uniform Object and Marla Aaron offer ultra-modern chain necklaces with vivid emerald pendants; and, if you decide you’re ready to take things up a notch, Kamyen’s striking emerald choker reinvents the traditional tennis necklace. Tennis bracelets are another easy update that will instantly make your wrist stack feel summer-ready: swap a classic diamond version for Shay’s multi-cut emerald design; or go for Jennifer Meyer’s timeless style, which features over two carats of gleaming gems.
When it comes to rings, it’s best to stick to sculptural silhouettes and modern motifs – to avoid fussy styles that feel more like your grandma’s than your own. A signet style ring is the perfect choice. Choose a chunky style, such as Retrouvaí’s 14-karat etched gold band design (that is handmade in Los Angeles); or – for a slightly simpler take on a signet ring – 42 Suns offers a similar style, featuring a lab-grown emerald within a subtle brushed gold band. For something daintier, Fabergé’s ‘Colours of Love’ design is petite yet punchy – plus, it’s pretty enough to be an engagement ring, too…
If you want to add a shot of color to your ear stack, simply mix your existing gold and diamond studs and hoops with a bold and brilliant pair of huggies, such as Anita Ko’s miniature 18-karat gold design. Those looking for a little more drama should try Shay’s emerald hoops with delicately cascading drops. Alternatively, Suzanne Kalan’s showstopping ultra-large hoops – featuring a sparkling flurry of diamonds, chalcedony and opals – are a once-in-a-lifetime investment that will always enliven an evening gown.
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