The Greek Fine-Jewelry Designer Making Modern Masterpieces

It is almost 20 years since Greek designer Nikos Koulis first launched his eponymous jewelry-making maison, and his list of devotees now reads like a checklist of Hollywood’s red-carpet regulars. There are the stars of stage, song, and screen (Rihanna, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Scarlett Johansson, to name a few), but there are also influential women with political voices and royal pedigree – Michelle Obama, the Duchess of Sussex, and Queen Rania of Jordan have all worn Koulis creations.

Pore over the maison’s rich repertoire and it is obvious why prominent personalities are drawn to the label: every piece is as exquisitely made as those crafted by legacy maisons on Place Vendôme, yet refreshingly original. For those who have seen it all, worn it all, and have access to anything already out there, Koulis’s contemporary take on high jewelry is a breath of fresh air – in just two decades, conjuring extravagant and unexpected beauty has become the designer’s very own USP. “To me, jewelry-making is an instrument to express myself; it is how I can create something beautiful with long-lasting value. I view my jewelry as feelings, moments, bonds,” he explains.

Hailing from a jewelry-making family, Koulis embarked on the launch of his brand in 2006 after studying gemology and glyptography with the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). “My relationship with jewelry has been lifelong,” says Koulis. “My family’s jewelry business certainly planted a seed for my future, as I grew up around stones, gold, and craftsmen.” Koulis first explored wire handiwork and was keen to discover a new creative universe. “I was fascinated by material and its behavior; the sculptural flexibility of gold, the endurance and shine of diamonds, the vulnerability of colored stones,” he enthuses.

Now, with an atelier and boutique in Athens, plus another store in Mykonos, Koulis’s Greek heritage remains a keystone of the brand’s DNA. After all, where better than the birthplace of Western civilization, home to some of history’s finest sculpture, architecture, philosophy, and poetry to inform works of art and engineering played out in precious gemstones? Those familiar with Koulis’s work can instantly discern how Grecian design codes run through each collection; how every jewel marries elegant classicism with avant-garde technique.

The maison’s most celebrated offering is the Oui collection, which encompasses ultra-wearable and accessible designs alongside one-of-a-kind masterpieces. Exceptional stones personally sourced by Koulis are celebrated within a reimagined Art Deco aesthetic, evoking a time-traveling duality that makes each piece feel never-seen-before modern, but also boasts heirloom potential. From a tennis necklace featuring emerald-cut diamonds framed by black enamel, to a pair of emerald and diamond earrings with a gleaming black surround, these are unapologetic gems that deliver a bold, adventurous aesthetic. “I always follow my gut and mood, in spite of the challenges, risks and difficulties,” explains Koulis.

The Feelings collection is, however, a little more relaxed and sensual, with designs including an 18-karat yellow-gold snake chain tied in knots (a reference to Greek maritime history) perfectly punctuated by white diamonds. Contrasting textures and mixed metals are employed to eye-catching effect; each piece seems to display multiple personalities and is able to shapeshift to whatever outfit you’re wearing, whether it’s a black column gown or a white shirt with blue denim. Our standout investment? The torque necklace, which features duetting diamonds that seemingly float alongside the piece’s 18-karat gold curves.

A master of his craft, Koulis received the GEM Award in Jewelry Design in 2020 – one of the most prestigious awards in the fine-jewelry world, and just one of many industry accolades awarded to him thus far. Featured in Fine Jewelry Couture Contemporary Heirlooms – a tribute to the leading designers of the modern age, authored by Olivier Dupont – it is clear that Nikos Koulis is building a bright and shining future. “It’s not about the accolades, the awards or celebrity placements,” counters Koulis. “My greatest reward is when I see and meet people around the world who wear, live in, and love my pieces. This is what I’m most proud of – thinking of my jewelry as part of their personalities,” he explains.

Indeed, Nikos Koulis designs will be collected by connoisseurs for not only their role in high jewelry-making history, but also for their invigorating ability to surprise, defy and delight. “I cannot determine the future,” says Koulis. “But I want to keep evolving the maison with integrity; creating jewelry with soul and originality.”

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