Introducing the jewelry designer making the heirlooms of tomorrow
She’s the hidden talent behind some of the world’s finest jewelry houses – and their most exquisite creations. CHARLIE BOYD speaks to NADIA MORGENTHALER about what inspires her own brand of antique-looking treasures
For several decades, the team in a humble atelier in central Geneva has been handcrafting some of the most technically challenging jewels in the world, for global maisons. These haute-couture creations are celebrated for their extraordinary artistry and remarkable beauty, yet the woman behind them is one of high jewelry’s best-kept secrets.
Alongside these commissions, Nadia Morgenthaler launched her own jewelry brand in 2013 and has since garnered a cult following among connoisseurs. She is one of the few craftspeople in the world who, rather than focusing on honing one element of a piece and passing it on to the next artisan in a conveyor belt, is able to design, construct, set and polish each and every one of her jewels herself.
Lustrous pearls, twinkling diamonds, uniquely hued gemstones and blackened metals harmonize in pieces that feel straight out of a fairytale – not the Disney, razzle-dazzle kind, but the history-steeped sort that scintillate by candlelight. Producing just a handful of designs each year, Morgenthaler’s exclusive creations are instantly recognizable for their antique romance and attention to detail. We find out what inspires her, and how fine jewelry can be a re-energizing source of comfort and joy during challenging times.
Each of your pieces feels steeped in history and heritage. How did this come to be your signature aesthetic?
“My jewelry references several eras: I am inspired by the Belle Époque and the 1900s – most importantly the architecture of this period, such as domed glass roofs, metal constructions and the Paris Exposition. The Middle Ages also inspire me, especially the Flemish Primitive Painters, who I admire for their focus on intricate detail and vivid colors. There are also fairytale references – I love storytelling, and many fantastical things influence my designs, from maharajas to magnificent castles, or the tale of A Thousand and One Nights. There are so many things that have nourished my imagination since childhood, and this blend of inspirations plays out in my jewelry.”
Why do you limit the number of jewels you create each year?
“It’s important to me that my clients each have something unique. I don’t want to delegate any part of the craftsmanship process – whether it is the initial design, the construction or the finishing of each piece. Overseeing each of these stages takes time, and I prefer to do fewer pieces, but perfectly.”
Why do your designs feature such a diverse range of precious materials?
“I don’t like to repeat myself. I want each jewel to be unique, but I also want it to feel like there is a common connection between the pieces, like they are all from the same family. Pearls bring all my designs together; I like them because they bring a touch of softness and femininity, and I am fascinated by their subtle colors. The blackened metal gives an antique feeling and functions much like a black line when you are sketching a piece of jewelry – it provides the crisp outline of each silhouette.”
“I think jewelry can bring a lot of joy. It is an art form, and it can help us change our vision of the world; just as when you go to the museum and see a painting – it stirs up emotions and can recharge your batteries
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Rather uniquely, your earrings have a left and a right side – what was the inspiration behind this ruby, diamond and pearl pair? (pictured above)
“With these earrings, the idea was to create a wave-shaped motif, suspended by chains, to give elegant movement. Balance is very important to me; my pieces have to be equilibrated so they can move without being stiff. I consider the placement upon the ear at length – each side needs to be tailored to suit its own side of the face – so my earrings have a left and a right to ensure they are best presented on the ears when viewed from the front.”
One of your signature pieces is a two-stone ring – what was the inspiration behind its design, and how was it crafted?
“I don’t like classic rings that have a central stone that protrudes from the finger, so I wanted to offset this stone and allow it to lie flat against the skin. I created a little tiara for the finger – balancing the spinel with a pearl that echoes its color; this way, they speak to one another. The ring was first crafted in red gold for strength and durability, and then sheathed with oxidized silver, to give its antique appearance. This is a silhouette that I often return to, but I explore different gemstone combinations – the wearer can choose to wear the ring either way up, as they prefer.”
In the current climate, what do you believe the role of jewelry to be?
“I think jewelry can bring a lot of joy. It is an art form, and it can help us change our vision of the world; just as when you go to the museum and see a painting – it stirs up emotions and can recharge your batteries. An elegant pair of earrings can help you feel even more beautiful, or help you to assert your character. Dressing and adorning yourself, whether for yourself or for those around you, can also be very comforting.”