Discover Balmain’s Ultra-Covetable Debut Fine-Jewelry Collection
With its first fine-jewelry collection, iconic French maison BALMAIN is conquering a new arena of artisanry – and infusing each piece with its own brand of assertive spirit and couture legacy
Like most couture houses, Balmain has a loyal following of sophisticated customers. But this luxury label’s devotees aren’t mere aficionados – they form the ‘Balmain army’, a legion of tastemakers who harness the maison’s signature rebellious spirit and exceptional craftsmanship, and frequent fashion’s most exclusive circles in its leading designs. Now, they have the perfect finishing touches to choose from too, with Balmain finally unveiling its glamorous first fine-jewelry collection.
It’s a much-anticipated addition, given the label’s long, illustrious history. Founding designer Pierre Balmain first broke into the fashion scene more than 75 years ago, establishing the maison’s ‘new French style’ as a bold disruptor within the hallowed cliques of haute couture. Fresh, powerfully feminine and audacious design was Balmain’s lifeblood, and the young designer became one of the few French protégées who instigated the golden age of couture and re-established Paris as the fashion capital of the world.
Then, in 2011, Olivier Rousteing took the helm as creative director of the storied maison, becoming the youngest creative director in Paris since celebrated doyen Yves Saint Laurent. Similarly keen to bring a youthful twist to classic couture, Rousteing has preserved and pushed the modern-yet-historic personality of the house since his appointment. Now, in 2022, this rich heritage has finally been channeled into a collection of fine jewels, designed in Paris and brought to life in France’s finest workshops, using ethical 18-karat gold and traceable gemstones.
Comprising 21 pieces, Balmain’s first fine-jewelry capsule is inspired by some of the house’s most well-known signature pieces, and includes motifs from both Balmain’s extensive archives and some of the most ornate designs to have emerged under Rousteing’s direction. This bold vision has been channeled into two sub-collections, titled Emblem and Labyrinth, with the former drawing on a mix of yellow gold, diamonds, onyx and tsavorites to reference the intricate embroideries seen in Rousteing’s Fabergé-inspired collection for FW12. Indeed, the lavish embellishment adorning Rousteing’s Emblem designs delivers one-of-a-kind creations that showcase extraordinary savoir-faire. These pieces also feature the maison’s distinctive coat of arms, known as the Balmain blazon, which is often found on the buttons of its cult blazers. Championing an elegant crown and lion, this motif is symbolic of the brand’s French heritage and, more recently, has come to represent the strength of the label’s modern Balmain army, too.
“Designed as an imaginative display of skilled construction, these maze-inspired treasures will prove astute investments thanks to their couture-led craftsmanship
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The Labyrinth designs, meanwhile, are inspired by the intricate mazes of France’s Renaissance gardens, with the initials of the house blended into a geometric pattern that creates gleaming lines and sleek silhouettes – all executed in 18-karat gold, of course. A color long associated with the house, gold is the protagonist of the collection as a whole, but diamonds are employed with panache to embellish the assertive, daring angles with a dash of scintillation, too.
Those familiar with the maison’s runway collections will be reminded of its instantly recognizable and empowering silhouettes (think angular shoulders, slashed skirts and precise tailoring) – signatures that are also echoed here, etched in the most precious of metals. Designed as an imaginative display of skilled construction, these maze-inspired treasures will prove astute investments thanks to their couture-led craftsmanship, as well as resilient, liberating pieces that will stand the test of time in true Balmain style.