Skin

The Newest Eye Treatments To Know Now

From lasers to regenerative medicine, the future of eye rejuvenation offers more options than ever before. Here, MALENA HARBERS speaks to DR. MARYAM ZAMANI about the treatments you need to know – and why subtlety is the current gold standard

Beauty
Zoe Saldaña

The eye area is the first place to show fatigue, stress and aging – but the way it’s being treated is changing. “There has been a significant shift away from looking ‘done’ towards looking healthy, rested and believable,” says oculoplastic surgeon and esthetic doctor Dr. Maryam Zamani, whose discreet, natural-looking work has earned her a devoted following. However, for all the innovation in treating this area, it remains one of the most challenging parts of the face to target correctly. “The skin is thinner, the vascular anatomy is intricate and even subtle changes can dramatically affect expression – in fact, a mere millimeter can make the difference between looking refreshed or overtreated – so expertise matters enormously.” With this in mind, today’s most effective treatments focus on improving skin quality and collagen production rather than simply replacing lost volume. Here, Dr. Zamani shares the ones that truly deliver…

Less filler is the future

“The biggest misconception is that every under-eye concern can be solved with filler,” says Dr. Zamani. “Dark circles, puffiness, hollowness, pigmentation and skin laxity all have different causes and require different treatments.” In fact, she affirms, the industry has become far more conservative around tear trough filler “because we’ve seen the long-term consequences of overfilling, swelling, potential migration and distortion.” And, while filler still has its place, in many cases, she explains, restoring support around the temples or mid-face creates a fresher result than when placing filler directly beneath the eyes. “Eye rejuvenation isn’t purely about the lower eyelid. Often, the brow, temples, mid-face and skin quality all contribute to a tired appearance.”

For crepey skin and fine lines: lasers and RF microneedling

When it comes to genuinely transforming the eye area, look to lasers: “Fractional or fully ablative CO₂ lasers as well as erbium laser technology continue to set the gold standard for meaningful resurfacing and tightening around the eyes,” says Dr. Zamani. You’ll get the most dramatic improvement in texture and tightening with CO₂ lasers, while erbium lasers offer similar results with slightly less downtime. “Radiofrequency (RF) microneedling has evolved significantly and is useful for collagen stimulation too, with even less downtime,” she notes. “But results are strongest in patients with signs of early aging.”

For crow’s feet and subtle lifting: neuromodulators

While not a new innovation, Botox (favored for subtle touch-ups by stars like Zoe Saldaña, Gwyneth Paltrow and Chloë Sevigny) and other wrinkle-relaxers such as Dysport and Xeomin remain top-tier treatments for smoothing the eye area, offering zero downtime and quick results. “Neuromodulators are incredibly effective for softening crow’s feet, opening the eye area and reducing dynamic wrinkles,” says Dr. Zamani. “For mild hooding, strategically placed neuromodulators can create a subtle brow lift, too.” The key, however, is restraint. Think ‘baby Botox’, which uses ‘micro-doses’ as a preventative measure to train facial muscles to relax before deep lines can set in, since, as Dr. Zamani notes, “patients today want to look like themselves – just more rested.”

For skin quality: regenerative injectables

One of the most exciting developments in esthetics right now is the rise of regenerative treatments designed to stimulate the body’s own repair mechanisms to improve skin texture and tone. PRP (platelet-rich plasma), polynucleotides, exosomes and skin boosters are the most well-known examples. “These treatments focus on hydration, elasticity, crepiness and skin integrity,” says Dr. Zamani. “They work particularly well for thinning skin, fine lines and early aging changes.” However, she notes, “the future is really about combining energy-based treatments [such as lasers and RF] with regenerative medicine to improve tissue quality rather than simply masking ageing.”

The truth about dark circles

Dark circles remain one of the most frustrating (and misunderstood) eye concerns. “They’re incredibly complex,” affirms Dr. Zamani. “Pigmentation, vascular visibility, hollowing, thinning skin and shadowing can all play a role.” Which is why there is rarely one universal solution. Pigmented under-eye circles may respond best to lasers, while thinning skin can improve with regenerative treatments designed to strengthen the area over time. Structural hollowing, meanwhile, may require careful support elsewhere in the face. “Often, a combination approach works best.”

Where to start

The best first step is always a proper assessment. “That’s because the eye area ages differently for each individual,” stresses Dr. Zamani. As a general guide, treatment in your thirties might focus on preventative collagen stimulation, subtle Botox and skin-quality-focused treatments. In your forties, concerns often shift toward laxity, pigmentation and volume loss, making combination approaches more relevant. By your 50s and beyond, “anatomy plays a larger role, and while non-surgical treatments remain valuable for maintenance and skin quality, a combination of surgical intervention and non-surgical support may sometimes offer the most natural-looking rejuvenation,” says Dr. Zamani. Ultimately, though, the most modern approach to eye rejuvenation is less about chasing perfection and more about preserving expression, movement and skin quality for the long-term – as Dr. Zamani concludes: “The best outcomes are the ones where people simply look well.”

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