The Ultimate Guide To Buying Precious Metals

There are myriad questions about precious metals that jewelry experts are consistently asked, whether from clients, family or friends around the dinner table. Will it tarnish? Will it go green? Will it go yellow? Which should I invest in? The list is endless. There are, indeed, some subtle nuances to buying precious metals that make it feel more complex than it really is. Once you know the foundations, you’ll feel confident enough to invest in the right pieces to suit your lifestyle and budget. Let us guide you through it…

The most common query where yellow gold is concerned is about karat values. Most jewelers work in 10-, 14-, 18-, or occasionally 24-karat gold, but this scale can leave shoppers perplexed, who often confuse it with the carat weight of diamonds. The karat of gold simply refers to its purity, as gold is a soft material that is often mixed with other metals to increase its durability. 24-karat gold is 99.9% pure gold, making it very malleable for jewelry making, and giving it a rich, yellow, buttery hue, but it is easily scratched by sharp gemstones. 18-karat gold, meanwhile, boasts a similar honey hue but delivers better durability, as it subtly contains alloys such as copper, silver or zinc. 14-karat and 10-karat gold are hardier, but more durability comes with a paler, muted tone.

If you’re unsure on the karat weight of a piece of jewelry, you should inspect its hallmarks (usually stamped on the clasp or its underside) but these insignias can vary by region, so a quick google will assist you if you’re unsure what each mark conveys. And, if your piece doesn’t have a hallmark at all? It is likely gold vermeil – solid silver coated in gold plating – or is perhaps simply gold-plated, where a base metal such as brass or copper is covered in a very thin layer of gold. If such pieces are worn occasionally and taken care of, then these pieces can last several years or more, but they won’t withstand daily wear for long; for everyday jewelry, solid gold makes a far better investment.

White gold is a man-made metal, formed of pure gold mixed with white metals to make it appear lighter in hue. Nickel, palladium, silver and zinc are common components, while some pieces are plated with rhodium to give an even whiter gleam and make it more scratch-resistant. White gold is assessed on the same karat scale as yellow gold, but it’s important to note that rhodium plating does wear off over time, so white-gold jewelry worn regularly will need to be re-plated every few years.

A surprising fact to some – pink gold, rose gold and red gold are, in fact, the exact same thing. These terms are, however, used interchangeably by different brands, and some maisons even develop their own individual alloys and give them proprietary names. Confused? Don’t be – essentially, all tones of rose gold are an alloy of pure gold mixed with copper, sometimes with a little silver to soften the hue. 18-karat rose gold tends to feature approximately 75% pure gold and 22% copper, so those with copper allergies should avoid lesser karat values as they will contain a higher percentage. The beauty of rose gold is that it doesn’t require re-plating, making it a durable alternative to white gold.

Sterling silver contains over 92% pure silver, and circa 7% other metals such as copper, zinc or germanium, to improve durability. Hallmarked with ‘925’, sterling silver is more affordable than gold or platinum, but it does tarnish – it will react with the air over time and develop a dark patina, but this can be easily removed with silver-polishing cloths. Storing silver jewelry in anti-tarnish pouches and wearing it regularly will also help keep tarnish at bay.

Platinum is a highly precious and durable metal used by the most elite jewelry maisons to house exceptional stones and is often employed for diamond engagement rings to help them withstand daily wear and tear. Platinum is a naturally occurring element and is rarer than gold – hence its high price tag – and unlike white gold and silver, won’t need replating or anti-tarnish treatments. Its silvery white hue makes it feel ultra-precious – the perfect choice for a meaningful piece of jewelry that will last for generations to come.