Discover Emilia Wickstead’s Cinematic Summer Capsule
Take a star turn in the designer’s energetic, effortless and elegant dresses and separates. By LAURA JORDAN
To put on Emilia Wickstead’s clothes is to enter a world of cinematic elegance. Silhouettes are boldly sophisticated, colors lush and saturated, fabrics sensuous and luxe.
So, it’s not surprising that, this summer, Wickstead finds inspiration in the work of the great Italian auteur Federico Fellini – specifically, his first film in color, 1965’s Juliet of the Spirits. Audacious, visually lavish and “brilliantly bananas” (as per The New York Times’ Stephen Holden on the occasion of the film’s 2001 reissue), it follows the titular heroine in pursuit of personal peace via spiritualism.
Juliet of the Spirits is the jumping-off point for Wickstead’s summer capsule, exclusive to NET-A-PORTER. It’s a reimagining of “occasion dressing through the lens of cinematic fantasy, where sculptural silhouettes meet a world of color and imagination”. The collection illustrates not only Wickstead’s love of film (“effortless yet energetic” Grace Kelly in Hitchcock films is her ultimate summer-dressing muse), but also the New Zealand-born, London-based designer’s affinity for Italy, where she moved in her teens, and natural inclination to designs that exude power through poise. It’s no stretch to imagine Wickstead fans and modern leading ladies – such as Emma Stone, Zoe Saldaña, Renée Zellweger and Nicola Coughlan – living their best summer in the designs. In signature Wickstead style, the capsule is an irresistible mix of escapism and reality.
“Silhouettes are boldly sophisticated, colors lush and saturated, fabrics sensuous and luxe
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“Wear the dress, the top, the skirt and the pants as you are. Feel yourself in them – elegance and effortlessness come naturally
”Emilia Wickstead
Central to the summer capsule’s tight edit are some truly excellent dresses – something Wickstead has form in. The key ingredients to a great summer dress? “A good waist and a low neckline,” says the designer, adding that the lean, strapless ‘Keeley’ column dress in chocolate satin is on her wish list for summer cocktails. Other highlights include a swishy, strapless A-line dress in bold pink and brown stripes, the fit-and-flare ‘Adonica’ dress with plunging neckline in Martini olive green, and the cinched-waist ‘Martel’ dress in a blush-pink-embossed cloque that calls to mind strawberry gelato. Crisp, fluid cotton pieces, such as the bubble-hem dress (a new idea for the brand) in sky blue or bombshell red, capture a carefree sophistication, while separates and co-ords embody the desire for the versatility and levity that summer evokes. Generously cut, languid pants are clearly appealing when teamed with a strapless bustier top, while a bralet and skirt can be worn together or mixed and matched as desired. Detachable trains on skirts develop the idea of versatility further and are a must for special summer occasions.
What, then, is the key to mastering that distinctive blend of elegance and effortlessness? “Not overthinking a look too much,” says Wickstead. “Wear the dress, the top, the skirt and the pants as you are. Feel yourself in them – elegance and effortlessness come naturally.” And, of course, a dose of Italian sunshine couldn’t hurt.