Ralph Lauren Collection’s Effortless, California-Inspired Eveningwear

Contemplate the notion of American style and it’s likely the mind will conjure Ralph Lauren. The designer, who established his namesake label six decades ago, has become a stalwart of the runways in New York ever since. But his influence reaches well beyond the skyscrapers; Ralph Lauren is not just at the forefront of the American fashion industry, he arguably helped create the concept of exactly what defines it.

Whether casually polished prep or boardroom-appropriate basics, the designer has perfected the all-American wardrobe that can seamlessly take women from dawn until dusk – just one reason he has been bestowed with countless honors from the Council of Fashion Designers America. Born in the Bronx in 1939, Lauren has an innate understanding of what clothing works both in and out of the city he calls home. Today, his fashion house is as renowned for its approachable, off-duty cotton staples as it is for red-carpet glamour. So, it’s no surprise the label has an army of celebrity devotees, from Margot Robbie, who opts for knitwear, to Bella Hadid, who loves the button-up shirts, to Blake Lively and Lupita Nyong’o, both of whom have sported sweeping gowns to an array of award ceremonies.

For SS23, this effervescent elegance was firmly on the agenda. Whether it’s for a warm-weather garden party on a verdant lawn, cocktails on a Los Angeles terrace, or an exquisite evening event, there’s a graceful gown to suit. This is a season for women to feel free to indulge in the art of dressing up – and for being their most glamorous selves. After several years of at-home comfort, the designer, who has become a master at pinpointing the mood of each season, has focused on the fun and the feminine – creating spirited dresses for women to fearlessly shine in.

California was this collection’s inspiration. The designer mixed the classic, on-deck vibe more associated with the preppy Polo Ralph Lauren label with the polish of the women’s ready-to-wear. It offered a cohesive and distilled vision of exactly what constitutes both Ralph Lauren the brand, and the essence of breezy, bi-coastal American style overall.

Fluid dresses took reference from catamaran sales that billow in the wind. Cut to A-line silhouettes that give the impression of floating (talk about making an entrance), they are crafted from a water-repellent silk taffeta, which offers a playful amalgamation of practicality and pretty. Each gown, composed of 10-12 meters of fabrics, feels as light as air to wear; they’re ideal for packing in a vacation suitcase for those unexpected formal occasions, and given their material technicality, are the perfect excuse for a barefoot walk in the sand at dusk. Splash along the shoreline, let the water lap the hem, and then revel in the lack of a dry-cleaning bill afterwards. These are dresses to not just be loved, but really worn.

This down-to-earth sensibility imbued the SS23 collection, with gowns finished with raw hems or decorated with nautical stitching. Pair them with strappy heels for uptown events, or slip them on with slides for a more relaxed mood. The palette, too, is distinctly nautical: bias-cut gowns are lent unwavering timelessness when rendered in navy and ecru, which prove a palate cleanser from traditional shocks of color with which eveningwear has become synonymous – and are a fresh alternative to the otherwise more traditional black.

Meanwhile, a vivacious red draws from the sunset to bring a signature pop; rendered as a cropped top and sweeping skirt co-ord, this look is the ultimate in versatility. Team the top with crisp white jeans for a look that would be perfect for telegraphing beachfront strolls in Maine; come winter, pair the skirt with a sleek black rollneck and a pair of stiletto boots, and layer with a cropped leather jacket to bring a rebellious edge.

Of course, no nautical-infused collection would be complete without a sailor-inflected pant, and this season’s jumpsuit is a refreshing take on after-dark dressing. With an architectural, asymmetric top that features a one-shoulder, one-sleeved silhouette, it’s a contemporary alternative to formal dressing that is sleek, chic and supremely comfortable. Wear it for work events by layering it with the crisp trench coat, which is guaranteed to become a trans-seasonal closet hero.

Come rain or shine, city or coast, the SS23 collection is made for any weather or mood – these pieces will endure in your wardrobe, just like the designer’s unwavering influence.

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