If you’re seeking to expand your fine jewelry collection – or are in the process of building one from scratch that truly reflects your style – there is a host of ultra-modern, slightly under-the-radar haute jewelers out there to reinvigorate your repertoire. Three contemporary brands in particular, with roots everywhere from São Paolo to Milan, have caught our attention for their ability to redefine traditional design rules through daring color, innovative stone settings and unexpected form. Get to know their design dialects, and how to translate them for 2020 and beyond.
Eéra’s jewelry designs have intrepid and utility-inspired élan. “We came across a vintage snap hook in a market in Tokyo and our first collection evolved from there,” say co-founders Chiara Capitani and Romy Blanga of the starting point behind their 2019-founded brand, which specializes in carabiner-inspired earrings in pavé speckled gold and striking highlighter hues. “We started thinking about how, when used in sporting activities, snap hooks are brightly colored, and thought it would be interesting and unconventional to incorporate this element into fine jewelry,” they add. The Italian jewelers counts Gilda Ambrosio, Dua Lipa and Hailey Bieber as fashion-forward fans, with the former choosing to stack the label’s sparkling snap hooks along one earlobe. We recommend sporting a single neon style with a darkly toned power suit for a subtle nod to SS20’s obsession with acid brights. Clipping two earrings together will ensure your ’80s look is even more athletically spirited.
“I’m always surrounded by Lucite boxes of loose gemstones,” Brazil-born, New York-based jeweler Moritz Glik says of the workshop packaging that inspired his eponymous brand’s signature kaleidoscope setting. Glik’s elegant drop earrings, half-moon-shaped hoops and chunky cocktail rings feature sapphire crystal windowpanes that house snow-globe-like sprinklings of diamonds, emeralds and sapphires. These stones jangle energetically with the movement of their wearer. “Brazilian culture is entrenched in the worlds of music and dance, and I’ve naturally manifested that into my work,” Glik says of his innovative, dancefloor-friendly style. “The combination of lively gemstones and the movement of each piece is a tribute to my heritage.” The jeweler also looks to the architecture of Manhattan as inspiration, and enamel details along with graphic and concentric forms make reference to the Art Deco period. Taylor Swift and Michelle Obama favor Glik’s free-moving styles on the red carpet – for an award-winning look, pair his pieces with dramatic eveningwear.
There’s a rock’n’roll rebellion behind the designs of São Paolo and London-based jeweler Ara Vartanian, who counts Kate Moss as a subversive style devotee. The Brazilian jeweler – who established his eponymous label in 2002 – creates geometric and striking designs that boast reverse-set diamonds (when the gemstone is essentially placed ‘upside down’). “There’s a beauty to the more dangerous side of the stone,” he says of his style signature. Inspired by the national gems of his home country, Vartanian favors colored stones, including darkly romantic black diamonds. He also counts avant-garde mid-century Brazilian architects including Jorge Zalszupin, Zanine Caldas and Sérgio Rodrigues as influences. Vartanian’s Whip collection features single earrings (the standout asymmetric accessory for SS20) formed of graduated inky stones that snake as cuffs around the contours of the ear, plus rings that wrap around the fingers. “The shade of diamond I use is so concentrated that it reflects like no other stone,” he says. Pair the brand’s pieces with distressed denim and dark leather for a downtown look with a rebellious lilt.
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