How To Master The Gem-Maxxing Trend
Calling all maximalists: the chicest way to wear gems this season is artfully layered, mixed and matched, says CHARLIE BOYD
If you aren’t gem-maxxing already, you’re missing out on a major moment. The gem-maxxing trend has been steadily burgeoning on social media for the last couple of years, but it has now gone all-out viral, as everything from ornate bags and shoes to phone cases and even cakes (see Kylie Jenner’s jewel-encrusted birthday cake) are encrusted with gems, while the fall/winter ’26 runways shone with an abundance of glittering stones at Prada, Dolce&Gabbana and Chanel.
The designers to know
When it comes to fine jewelry, the trick is to invest in semi-precious jewels in rainbow hues that deliver maximum impact and layer them with confidence. Certain designers excel in harnessing such gems, playing with myriad crystals and hardstones to create eye-catching color combinations, including Octavia Elizabeth, who regularly uses tourmalines, topaz, chrysoprase and tanzanites to striking effect, such as those in her ‘Cobblestone Gemmed’ earrings.
Irene Neuwirth – best known for her ‘Gemmy Gem’ and ‘Gumball’ collections – is a designer with a wealth of colored stone at her fingertips, from pale morganites paired with amethysts in a pair of elegant drop earrings, to a saccharine shade of aquamarine in her ‘Heroic’ pendant. And David Webb is another much-coveted jewelry brand known for its bold, maximalist and highly sculptural designs.
However, gem-maxxing doesn’t necessarily mean you always have to pick loud tones. If you wish to stick to a pastel color palette, the effect can be just as exciting. Jia Jia offers plenty of delicately hued pieces that can be layered with abandon.
DAVID WEBBStrap 18-karat gold, platinum, diamond and enamel cuff
DAVID WEBBScroll 18-karat gold and platinum, diamond and enamel bangle
DAVID WEBBUnity 18-karat gold and platinum, diamond and enamel bracelet
IRENE NEUWIRTHGumball 18-karat gold multi-stone earrings
The key pieces
Generally speaking, it is easier to achieve a gem-maxxing effect when you choose strong, impossible-to-miss statement jewels. The traditional Big Three – rubies, sapphires and emeralds – are deeply saturated and will make this task light work. Marlo Laz’s ‘Lexi’ rhodolite and diamond earrings would work as the perfect crescendo drop to a stack of glittering studs in autumnal tones, while the New York-based designer’s indicolite and diamond bombé-style cocktail ring can’t fail to be noticed, standing loud and proud upon the finger. There are no real color pairing rules to gem-maxxing – contrasting, clashing and complementary colors are all equally effective in creating a maximalist look, but volume of pieces is non-negotiable. If you’re unsure, simply pop on some more.
Cocktail rings are, of course, a key piece in your arsenal, thanks to their oversized gems and unapologetic silhouettes – Ileana Makri’s striking green amethyst design heroes its central, show-stopping stone with a contrasting edge of diamonds that provide a scintillating halo. Don’t be afraid to wear multiple oversized pieces across a ringscape either; stacks of slim bands can be punctuated with a couple of large solitaires, while pinky rings will add extra touches of scintillation to every last finger.
MARLO LAZLexi 14-karat gold, rhodolite and diamond earrings
MARLO LAZLa Salina 14-karat gold, indicolite and diamond ring
ILEANA MAKRISolitaire 18-karat gold, amethyst and diamond ring
DAVID WEBBDouble Crescent 18-karat gold and platinum, diamond and azurmalachite earrings
For necklace styling, it’s important to not just play with color, but riff on playful proportions, too. A long Y-necklace with spaced-out gems, such as Jia Jia’s blue topaz style, allows for further pieces to be layered on top – without gems scratching or becoming tangled. Meanwhile, the brand’s bolder bead style necklaces – such as this opal and smoky quartz design – can offer a one-and-done option for the décolletage, allowing you to add statement earrings instead. While technically there’s no such thing as ‘too much’ when it comes to gem-maxxing, it is still important to allow each piece – and yourself – the space to shine.
JIA JIA18-karat gold topaz necklace
JIA JIA14-karat gold diamond, opal and smoky quartz beaded necklace
SYDNEY EVAN14-karat gold, andalusite and diamond necklace
ANITA KO18-karat-gold, emerald and diamond necklace
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