How To Plan A Magical Mallorca Vacation, According To The Insiders
The biggest of the Balearic Islands, Mallorca has long wooed visitors and locals alike with its golden sands, gleaming azure coves, rugged mountains and buzzing cityscape. KATIE BERRINGTON asks insiders from three of the island’s most magnificent hotels to share their secrets for a Mallorcan itinerary like no other
“Once you’ve been to Deià, it’s always going to be a place to return to” – Cecilie Sheridan, resident curator at La Residencia, Deià
My favorite spot is…
“Up in the hills. I like climbing up there to get a little distance from the village and to see it ‘fresh’. It’s impossible to get tired of Deià. Once you’ve been to Deià, it’s always going to be a place to return to.”
The island has some fantastic places to eat …
“[In Deià] we have more restaurants than anything else. Try El Olivo at La Residencia: chef Guillermo Méndez is just wonderful and it’s always a delight. There’s a very popular bar called Xelini, which is known as the tapas restaurant – it’s very informal, with a lovely garden space. Restaurante Sebastian is beautiful, with a brilliant chef. And there’s a place that we think of as a pizzeria, Trattoria Italiana, that the locals love.”
Deià is known for its artistic spirit…
“And we like to do temporary seasonal exhibitions at La Residencia’s art gallery, Sa Tafona, which translates as ‘olive press’. Like so many of the houses on the island, the olive press is the largest room at the hotel, making it a very sought-after space – and perfect as a gallery. Be sure to also take a walk through the village: I have local artist friends who open the doors to their studios so you can see them at work.”
Something only the locals know is…
“If you want to see the beach cove at its best, go any time from mid-September. It has wonderful walk-through olive groves and the path keeps dividing. People always say to me, “Point me in the direction of the beach” – and I say, “Just go downhill!” It’s a very special little cove, but it gets so overrun in mid-summer that it’s difficult to enjoy it – and the heat is something else, too.”
To observe the best view…
“There are beautiful walks along the coast (best enjoyed out of season) that climb up into the hills. However, while the mountains may look innocuous, they can be quite dangerous, so you need a guide. Within Deià itself, the walk to the church is magnificent: you can see so far in so many directions from the top of the hill, down on to the little village and out to sea at the same time. Because Deià is on many levels, just turning a corner can open up a whole new view – even though I’ve lived here for so long, I’m still constantly surprised.”
“The views are hard to forget” – Pilar Garcia-Nieto, interior design director at Finca Serena, Montuïri
For a once-in-a-lifetime experience, you need to…
“Let yourself go, explore the walks along the inland dry-stone paths, enjoy the gastronomy and the weather. And if you do it by bike, it’s even better.”
The best place to shop is…
“Palma. It has an enormous offering of shops, from those that are present in any high-class city, to small boutiques with a lot of charm. I recommend Gordiola, a company that has been making family-blown glass since 1719. Its cruet sets and glassware [collections] are marvelous – I would take them all.”
The local delicacies to try are…
“Undoubtedly the handmade ensaimada [a traditional sweet pastry] – and the best place to buy and taste it is at Can Salem, very close to Finca Serena. You can enjoy it every morning at our hotel breakfast, too, as Can Salem supplies it daily. I also recommend Ca’s Patró March – the best spot near the sea. It’s very traditional, authentic and chic.”
To observe the best view…
“[Head to] Cabo Formentor for vistas that are hard to forget: the sea and Serra de Tramuntana [mountains] together – what else can you ask for? The elevated views over Pla de Mallorca from Finca Serena are also stunning.”
Something only the locals know is…
“[Where] the difficult-to-access coves and beaches with crystal-clear turquoise waters are… Mallorcans keep [them] secret so they can continue to enjoy the sound of the sea.”
“The higher you go, the more spectacular the view” – Mikael Hall, owner of Can Bordoy, Palma
My favorite spot is…
“There are many, but if I have to choose one, it’s a seat on one of the benches along Borne, especially in the cooler season. You are in the heart of this wonderful medieval town, but it is alive – and there you are in the middle of this greenery, just relaxing and enjoying the scenery. Also, the garden of Can Bordoy, because it is in the center of old town Palma de Mallorca, but it feels like you are in the countryside, with birds singing and bees buzzing.”
The local delicacies to try are…
“Pa amb oli [bread with olive oil] with a local wine – go to either Mercat de l’Olivar or Mercat de Catalina. Saturdays are lovely to visit the latter to enjoy some fresh fried fish and a glass of white Verdejo.”
For a once-in-a-lifetime experience, you need to…
“Put on your hiking shoes and walk one of many trails in the fantastic Tramuntana mountains – a UNESCO World Heritage site.”
To observe the best view…
“Go to the Tramuntana mountains; the higher you go, the more spectacular the view.”
Something only the locals know is…
“That the best time [to be] in Mallorca is during low season, from mid-October to March.”
“Hidden coves are the beauty of the island” – Miguel Garcia Feliz, managing director of Can Ferrereta, Santanyi
My favorite spot is…
“The south-east region of the island, mainly because of the incredible light there. One of my favorite spots is Cala s’Almunia – an amazing cove ideal for bathing, with turquoise waters and surrounding cliffs. It’s the perfect place for the first swim of the day – go very early in the morning if you like being alone; it’s the best feeling ever.”
For a once-in-a-lifetime experience, you need to…
“Get out of your comfort zone and discover the countless villages on the island – the ones on the coast, but also inland. And don’t plan your vacation purely based on what a guide dictates!”
To observe the best view…
“See a sunset from Cap de Formentor.”
The local delicacies to try are…
“Grilled-squid rice, with fennel and aïoli – our Can Ferrereta chef, Carlos García, cooks a wonderful version in the house restaurant, Ocre. Also, ensaimada [a local pastry], together with sobrasada [a spicy cured sausage] – this is a delicious mix of sweet and salty. It doesn’t get more Mallorcan than that.”
Something only the locals know is…
“The location of hidden coves… that’s the beauty of the island. Be adventurous, walk, and forget about following your phone. Some things are too good to be shared.”