Ulla Johnson’s modern bohemia
The New York designer serves up her free-spirited, ultra-feminine eclecticism, with a focus on ‘forever’ dresses for SS19
Walking a unique path between charmingly artisan and luxuriously bohemian, Ulla Johnson is the go-to label for those with a wanderlust spirit. This season, the New York-based designer took things up a notch, with elevated summer dresses that wouldn’t look out of place in far-flung destinations – or on the red carpet. Some of the standout pieces include an exquisite, graphic crochet gown, which is contemporary yet also has the look and feel of a piece that was made by hand and picked up on vacation. As ever, Johnson worked with artisans from around the world in countries such as Peru and India to celebrate craftsmanship and bring a distinctiveness to her collection. “We worked with a women’s co-op in Peru to create hand-crocheted tops and dresses; a group of Maasai women to create several pieces beaded entirely by hand; a women’s co-op in the Philippines to weave handbags out of abacá plant,” says Johnson. “All of these pieces were months in the making – a true labor of love and a joy to create.”
The versatile dresses defy day and night dress codes. The divine ‘Gisella’ color-blocked dress in peach, amber and navy is perfect for summer garden parties with flat sandals; should the party continue after sunset, it can easily be dressed up with heels, simple gold jewelry and one of Johnson’s intricately hand-woven abaca tote bags with pretty tassel details. Other dresses had a more extravagant, Victoriana feel, such as the embroidered ‘Salma’ gown with its regal high neck and full-tiered skirt. Johnson created the perfect contrast between its demure silhouette by adding a sensual backless finish. And summer wedding guests will be thrilled by her romantic and ultra-flattering navy printed halterneck dress; its easy flowing silhouette makes it the sort of dress that was made with the dance floor in mind.
“All of these pieces were months in the making – a true labor of love and a joy to create
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Johnson’s use of natural fibers and beautiful finishings, coupled with her elegant and desirable designs, have gained her a dedicated fan base. It’s unsurprising that her rustic yet refined designs are found hanging within the wardrobes of powerful and perennially chic women such as Alicia Vikander, Michelle Williams, Greta Gerwig, Jennifer Lawrence and Kate Bosworth. Johnson herself is the embodiment of her free-spirited yet sophisticated ethos. Born in New York, she had a richly peripatetic upbringing as she often accompanied her archaeologist parents on their world travels. Her wanderlust instilled in her a love of bold textiles and a uniquely global perspective on fashion. “Travel is very integral to my process,” she says. “I design for any woman and every woman. Ultimately, my life’s work is to make women feel beautiful and powerful and this is at the center of all of my designs.” She began her eponymous label in 1998, and its longevity and growing popularity is testament to its inimitability.
Johnson’s strength is also her distinct understanding of what women want nowadays. Her dresses transcend trends, and while they look like they’ve been a part of your closet for years, they have a timeless quality, too. Such artisanal treasures are perfect for busy women who need easy one-and-done outfits that befit their lifestyle while still guaranteeing style kudos. “The Ulla woman is so many things – a traveler, perhaps a mother, a professional, both, or neither. It’s always an honor and a joy to see women wearing my designs and inflecting them with their own individual vibe.” So, whether you’re planning a blissful getaway, or you want to bring some sunshine to the city, Ulla Johnson’s SS19 collection ticks all of our sartorial summer needs.