The Fashion Memo

5 New York Fashion Shows That Made History

Gucci at Times Square

With New York Fashion Week kicking off this week, FRANCINE HEATH looks back at some of the iconic landmarks that have played host to major runway shows, including an unforgettable Gucci takeover of Times Square and Alaïa’s artistic outing at the Guggenheim

Fashion

From Central Park to the Brooklyn Bridge, New York has set the scene for some of cinema’s epics, provided the backdrop for our favorite TV shows, offered the shelter of its Garden for this year’s most talked-about wedding and even hosted the final of the Fifa World Cup this summer, by way of New Jersey. When it comes to New York Fashion Week, the city’s iconic locations also play their part. In the Big Apple, where a collection is shown can be as memorable as what’s presented on the runway.

Take Chanel’s Métiers d’Art 2026 presentation, which stopped people in their tracks as it traded the house’s traditional grandiose settings for a New York City subway. On a stormy December evening on an abandoned subway platform in Manhattan, models stepped off the ‘C’ line in feathered gowns, pinstripe suits, killer leopard tweed and slick leather. The show was watched the world over as we reveled in Matthieu Blazy’s ode to New York style. His ultimate tribute? Making ‘I heart NY’ tourist tees cool again.

Then there are the shows that happen right on the city’s streets. Telfar’s 20th-anniversary show took over Cortlandt Alley, a gritty passageway better known as a backdrop for films than fashion shows, while X-Girl’s guerrilla 1994 debut was shrewdly timed to kick off across from where the who’s who of ’90s fashion were spilling out of a Marc Jacobs event. Staged by founders Daisy von Furth and Sonic Youth’s bassist Kim Gordon, with Sofia Coppola and Spike Jonze heading up production, the show generated instant hype around the A-line dresses, ringer tees and poppy graphics that helped define the era.

If these examples prove anything, it’s that, in New York, the setting isn’t simply a backdrop – it’s part of the story. With New York Fashion Week on the horizon, what better time to revisit even more of the city’s most iconic show spaces? From a stitch in Times Square to a turn around the Guggenheim, here are five of PORTER’s favorites.

Times Square was a spectacular setting for Gucci at this year’s New York Fashion Week

Times Square, Gucci, Cruise 2026

There’s only one word to describe Demna’s megawatt takeover of Times Square for Gucci: blockbuster. From an all-star front row including Kim Kardashian, Mariah Carey, Lindsay Lohan and Lady Bunny to unforgettable runway cameos from Cindy Crawford, Paris Hilton and Tom Brady, the GucciCore show was made to measure up to the 91-foot screens and 32,256 LED lights that provided its incredible backdrop. Packed with striking colors, ’90s suiting and fluttery feathers, the latter modeled by Crawford to close the show, the collection was every bit as electrifying as the neon billboards behind it. Even the makeup paid homage to New York, with flushed cheeks reflecting bustling city days and glossy red lips taking cues from spontaneous New York nights. Whether you’re dressing up for an evening in Manhattan or Milan, lean on the power of a statement lace bodysuit, then channel Emily Ratajkowski’s cruise runway look with Gucci’s razor-sharp ‘Donna’ black knee-high boots.

L-R: Cindy Crawford, Paris Hilton and Dree Hemingway on the Gucci runway at Times Square
  • GUCCI
    Lace bodysuit
    €1,100.00
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  • GUCCI
    Jetset GG Marmont web-trimmed quilted leather shoulder bag
    €2,500.00
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    Stretch-wool mini skirt
    €850.00
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    Donna 110 Horsebit-detailed leather knee boots
    €1,850.00
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New York Stock Exchange, Balenciaga, spring 2023

In 2022, Balenciaga made history by staging the first-ever fashion show on the trading floor of the New York Stock Exchange. Yes, there were riffs on corporate-style suits and some seriously sharp shoulders in the Spring ’23 lineup, but Demna’s taste for the unexpected was also on full display, with models taking to the runway with their identities obscured by fetish bodysuits. Over their latex layers, they wore ‘wardrobe staples’ in elevated cuts and sharp finishes, while the eveningwear section delivered bold silhouettes, including floor-length silk trenches. Invest in the label’s sculpted ‘Vareuse’ LBD or its perennially chic ‘Le City’ bag in all its crinkly glory. Alternatively, try pink with a deep burgundy shoe to see your style stock skyrocket.

  • BALENCIAGA
    Sack silk and wool-blend cady midi dress
    €3,500.00
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    Le City small embellished textured-leather tote
    €2,100.00
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    Vareuse draped scuba mini dress
    €2,600.00
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    City embellished leather mules
    €790.00
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In 2022, Balenciaga models wore fetish bodysuits underneath the runway creations on show at New York’s Stock Exchange
Frank Lloyd Wright’s Guggenheim hosted Pieter Mulier’s 2025 Alaïa show

The Guggenheim, Alaïa, winter/spring 2025

When Pieter Mulier served as Alaïa’s creative director, before moving on to Versace, he could seemingly do no wrong – his ability to balance architecture with softness was mesmerizing. These two ideas found their perfect environment in Frank Lloyd Wright’s Guggenheim. Mulier’s staging was the first major runway show in the iconic building’s 87-year history. Set on Manhattan’s Upper East Side, the spiraling building embodies the architect’s fascination with nature and organic form – its galleries are divided like the membranes of a citrus fruit. It was in this setting that the designer demonstrated the beauty of form and freedom, with his tribute to American sportswear for the label’s winter/spring ’25 collection. The front row included a supermodel reunion of Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Amber Valletta and Stephanie Seymour, while Kendall Jenner led the models walking the runway’s curved ramps – wearing circle skirts, bandeau tops and beautifully draped hoods. Evoke Alaïa’s effortless chic with a beautifully sculpted coat in a thick, natural fabric like wool, or choose a dress that skims the body and elongates the silhouette. Alternatively, for a real fall/winter ’26 flourish, style Alaïa’s red ‘Infra’ sandals with a pair of purple pants. It’s the color combination du jour.

Alaïa on the runway at the Guggenheim
  • ALAÏA
    Belted asymmetric draped virgin wool coat
    €5,900.00
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  • ALAÏA
    Le Teckel Flap Small leather-trimmed calf hair shoulder bag
    €2,600.00
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    Stretch-jersey turtleneck maxi dress
    €3,200.00
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    Infra 55 croc-effect leather thong sandals
    €990.00
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The New York Public Library, Marc Jacobs, spring 2027

A New York minute, or four to be exact, was all the time it took for the Marc Jacobs Spring 2027 show to deliver the color of the season at the New York Public Library. The library provided the perfect location for a show packed with references: Bob Fosse’s All That Jazz; Yves Saint Laurent’s Spring ’93 collection; Chanel Spring 1993; Junya Watanabe Spring 1996; Prada Spring 2007, as well as his own work at Marc Jacobs Spring 1998 and Spring 2000 and Louis Vuitton Spring 2009. Jacobs’ takeover of the historic venue may have been short and sweet, but it was a lesson in how to deliver maximum impact. Styling models drenched in every shade of the rainbow, the designer rewrote the rules of color with a plethora of unexpected and incredibly chic color combinations. The ‘Gratitude’ collection included mini dresses made for dancing, micro-skirts in croc, stacked belts and retro tights. To borrow from Jacobs’ collection, layer yellows with pinks, blues with oranges. There are no rules.

The New York Public Library was the perfect setting for Marc Jacobs’ Spring 2027 show
Bethesda Terrace, in the heart of Central Park, was an iconic location for New York designer Ralph Lauren’s 2018 show

Central Park, Ralph Lauren, 2018

How do you celebrate your brand turning 50? You stage a runway show at one of New York’s most iconic landmarks, that’s how. For born and bred New Yorker Ralph Lauren, nowhere else would do but Bethesda Terrace in the heart of Central Park – a fitting backdrop for a designer who has spent a lifetime celebrating all-American style. Models walked on a carpeted runway to the tune of New York Is My Home by Dion and Paul Simon in front of a star-studded crowd that included Oprah Winfrey, Jessica Chastain, Robert De Niro, Anne Hathaway and Bruce Springsteen. Each look celebrated evening glamour with a characteristically Western twist. Think plaid blazers paired with tulle skirts, slouchy knits layered over sequin dresses and tuxedo-style shirting styled not with tailoring but leather pants – and a cowboy belt, of course. Country-coded checks are just as relevant today as they were in 2018, when the show took place, so you’ll reach for Ralph Lauren Collection’s ‘Glen’ blazer for years to come. Team it with the coordinating ‘Timothy’ pants or wear it more casually with a creamy cable-knit sweater and jeans.

Ralph Lauren Collection on the Central Park runway
  • RALPH LAUREN COLLECTION
    Glen double-breasted Prince of Wales checked silk blazer
    €2,700.00
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  • RALPH LAUREN COLLECTION
    Cable-knit cashmere sweater
    €1,100.00
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  • RALPH LAUREN COLLECTION
    Timothy pleated Prince of Wales checked silk straight-leg pants
    €1,400.00
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    Textured-leather belt
    €700.00
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