The style rules Cape Town-based artist Tony Gum swears by

My practice isn’t just about the fact that I’m a Xhosa woman [an ethnic group originating from Southern Africa] or a Black woman. Identity isn’t that binary and is always in flux. Also, I’m reluctant to label my artworks as self-portraits because, although I’m depicted, it’s really humanity that I’m exploring. My work is informed by the idea of Black consciousness; the importance of recognizing Black value and our pivotal role in history, because all this is critical when it comes to forming our identity.

In terms of fashion, my style is simple and effective. Being an artist, I’m always on the go, running between meetings and the studio, so I have quite a pragmatic approach to dressing. Day to day, I carry a big tote – with room for my laptop – and I love dresses with pockets; I hate outfits that are impractical. Plus, Cape Town is a city where two weather fronts meet, so on any given day you have to be ready for sun, wind and rain. However, that isn’t to say that my style is minimal: I love playing with shape and color and finishing a look with a statement shoe or a bold lip – I have full lips and I love to accentuate them with bold matte color. I’ve also been getting into jewelry recently. I grew up in an environment that didn’t necessarily encourage that kind of embellishment, for religious reasons, so I’m easing myself in with a few rings and bracelets.

I come from a family that believes in the importance of expressing yourself through what you wear, so I have always been innately interested in fashion. And fashion is an extension of my artistry. The women whose styles I admire the most are people like Solange Knowles, Tracee Ellis Ross and artist Oroma Elewa. They are women who dominate within their industries and have a very clear idea of who they are. Their style transcends clothes; anyone can dress well or try to emulate their look, but these women are utterly unique and utterly themselves.

My interest in style, and art, began when I was in my early teens. My family moved to a new neighborhood and I didn’t know any kids in the area. I had no one to play with, so my cousin and I used to entertain each other. We would play dress-up, then borrow my mom’s camera and stage our own fashion shoots. That was the start. After that, I set up my own blogs on sites like Lookbook.nu – they became my playground. That period was very formative. Even now, my work is still about self-expression and discovery.