Discover The Refined Versatility Of Ananya’s Heritage-Inspired Gems
As fine-jewelry maison Ananya launches its first high-jewelry collection, NET-A-PORTER explores the stratospheric success of the brand that made bead bracelets cool again
In just four years, Ananya Malhotra has gone from relative obscurity in fine-jewelry circles to becoming the latest ‘it’ brand in high demand. Yet, despite only establishing Ananya in 2018, designer Malhotra had set the wheels in motion for her jewelry-making business long before its launch. Raised in India, Malhotra was accustomed to jewelry being omnipresent in her culture and customs, and fell in love with the power of jewelry from an early age. “I have always associated jewelry with milestones and beautiful memories,” she explains, adding it is this backdrop that shaped the identity of her label. “I wanted to create a brand that celebrated my heritage, and the emotional and spiritual aspect of jewelry rather than it just being material. As a child, I also spent a lot of time with my grandparents, who are incredibly spiritual, and this inspired my collections and research.”
With a vision in place, Malhotra chose to study metal and jewelry arts at London’s prestigious Central Saint Martins, before embarking on a gemology certification with the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). Choosing a name for the brand came easily, too: in Hindi, Ananya translates as ‘unique’, a sentiment now translated in her designs and the overarching mission of the label. “I wanted to create jewelry that has no equivalent, in beauty, craftsmanship or meaning,” she explains.
“A choker can be worn playfully with a casual look, but it can also be the centerpiece of an evening outfit; I love seeing chokers stacked with collars and pendants, playing on layering different lengths around the neck
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Before long, Malhotra also became intrigued by the healing properties of gemstones. “Having been told my root chakra was blocked and that I needed to wear ruby beads in order to cure this, I set about designing a piece that incorporated these beads and their importance, while being beautiful to wear at the same time,” explains Malhotra. The ‘Chakra’ bracelet was soon born and, crafted in myriad gemstones with mystical combinations of jewels, it remains a sell-out style today.
Indeed, gem connoisseurs, whose wrists are often seen stacked with icons from the major maisons, are now in hot pursuit of Ananya’s ‘Chakra’ collection, putting bead bracelets firmly back on the map. Yet the stellar popularity of this cult creation is far from a one-hit wonder. Ananya’s ‘Scatter’ capsule has similarly shaken up the industry and its innovative diamond setting, which sees gems seemingly hover upon the skin like delicate constellations, has also been met with rapturous applause.
“The real beauty of Ananya pieces is their refined versatility: worn with a full-length gown or a pair of jeans, they are chameleon-like in their charm
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Now, Ananya has launched a new collection entitled ‘Magnificent Jewels Volume I’ – a hint at how the brand’s first foray into high-jewelry making marks the beginning of a new chapter for the business. Harnessing the filigree elegance of the ‘Scatter’ collection, Malhotra has explored color and shading, with unique jewels featuring pastel hues of peach, pink and pale-lemon diamonds in myriad silhouettes. Unsurprisingly, the designs require an expert eye when it comes to sourcing gems, and Malhotra works through countless layouts to find the correct harmonies of color and cut.
As a result, this latest collection retains the delicacy of the ‘Scatter’ designs, but Malhotra has further explored contemporary silhouettes, with the choker, in particular, becoming increasingly in demand. “A choker can be worn playfully with a casual look, but it can also be the centerpiece of an evening outfit; I love seeing chokers stacked with collars and pendants, playing on layering different lengths around the neck,” Malhotra muses.
Of course, the real beauty of Ananya pieces is their refined versatility: worn with a full-length gown or a pair of jeans, they are chameleon-like in their charm and designed to effortlessly relax into their surroundings. “Personally, I feel jewelry no longer has its ‘dos and don’ts’,” says Malhotra, which seems a fitting mantra for a woman forging her own future, one unique jewel at a time.
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