Chain Reaction: Why Lauren Rubinski Is Famed For Her Iconic Gold Jewelry

Whichever way you look at it, firmly putting broader world affairs aside, 2020 was the year of the chain. As well as being unanimously ubiquitous among the fashion set, in pop culture, protagonist heart-throb Connell (played by Irish actor Paul Mescal) seduced viewers of the hit TV series Normal People with his delicate flat link silver chain – now an internet sensation with its own Instagram profile. This remarkable chain reaction all started, however, with a contemporary jeweler hailing from Paris – Lauren Rubinski – who launched her brand in 2019 and transformed the classic chain into a cult contemporary icon.

Although each piece is handmade in Italy, Rubinski’s chains are now internationally admired. The likes of Ashley Graham, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Emily Ratajkowski and Kate Moss made sure of that, wearing Rubinski’s pieces with anything and everything, from beautiful gowns to the proverbial ‘birthday suit’. Rubinski’s chains are the ultimate high-low jewel – effortlessly precious due to their 14-karat-gold construction, yet suitably casual enough to be worn with jeans and a T shirt. Rubinski’s best-sellers are her large link necklaces, which are oversized but feather-light – thanks to their clever, hollow design. Rubinski spent an age refining the construction of each link to achieve this uniquely weightless effect, while ensuring each necklace is bold, sexy and can be worn with any look. “The history of these chains is closely linked to the women in my family and our personal style,” says Rubinski. “Each of these women makes a point to stand out. These chains are them – all of us; strong and powerful,” she explains.

Entirely self-taught, Rubinski doesn’t remember a specific age at which she chose jewelry as a career, but it was most definitely in her blood. “I’ve always been into jewelry but also into character-building, dressing up and trying to feel like a woman,” she says. “Creating jewelry was very natural to me, I wanted to have something I could call my own – it was either this or art,” she explains. As a child, Rubinski’s would rifle through her grandma’s jewelry box when she went to visit her in Cap d’Antibes in the south of France, but says she had myriad inspirations for her chain designs. “From [the world of] hip-hop and street culture to African and Caribbean communities, the [ubiquitous] chain necklace has always been a fashion staple that inspires me,” she says.

Since launching on NET-A-PORTER two years ago, Rubinski’s collections have expanded to reflect her maximalist sensibilities – she never goes out with an empty neck and wears an abundance of rings on her fingers. “More is always more,” she quips. Rubinski’s designs thus far have focused on chunky chains with a vintage feel that are unisex, but they have a full-bodied and feminine feel too. Her newest collection, however, updates these style staples with designs that flaunt bold flashes of color and scintillating diamonds – pieces that have required a lot of care, time and attention to refine to her exacting standards. The chain, however, remains the hero. “A chain is such a strong piece of jewelry,” says Rubinski, “I just hope that everyone who wears one will feel as powerful as I do.”