Knitwear – be it whisper-thin cashmere or the chunkiest yarn around – may not seem like the perfect pairing with jewelry, but it can be. As much as a sun-kissed glow really brings out the gleam of gold, so too a rolled-up cardigan sleeve can make a diamond tennis bracelet sparkle. It’s just about getting the balance right – here’s how…

A pendant on a fine chain – like L’Atelier Nawbar’s lapis lazuli ‘Your Hand in Mine’ – needs a little contrast. It would look hopeless over a very chunky knit (never strain a skinny chain) but, glinting against your skin under RedValentino’s powder-blue cable-knit cardigan, it’s spot on. The same goes for Gemella’s adorable ‘Sweetheart’ necklaces and Mason and Books’ equally cute ‘Love Bug’ necklaces with shimmering opal, topaz and diamond details. That contrast of something super-delicate on your skin and a thick, cozy yarn is a winner.

If you want to wear some jewelry over a chunky knit, such as an oversized turtleneck from The Row or a jacquard knit from JW Anderson, you’ve got to fight fire with fire. That means super-strong, super-bold chains by Lauren Rubinski, with oversized links and pops of rainbow color. These naval-length necklaces, swinging with giant smiley-face pendants and jangling chain bracelets, look even better en masse. Robinson Pelham’s pieces can take on bigger sweaters, too – especially their solid ‘Identity’ necklaces and bracelets, featuring a smattering of diamonds.

While a delicate little necklace might not make much impact over a sweater, a long one works well. Foundrae’s ‘Wholeness’ necklace is on a long chain that can be doubled for extra impact, while Marie Lichtenberg’s ‘Waterfall’ pendant on a two-tone cord is big and bold enough to swing over a cozy cardi. The double-drop quartz necklace by Pippa Small hangs right down the sternum, with two oversized quartz drops making a big statement.

If anything can handle a #neckmess, it’s winter wool. Foundrae makes a jumble of different charms child’s play by doing the layering for you – the ‘Resilience Per Aspera Ad Astra’ necklace throws a couple together and looks even better when layered with more Foundrae pieces. This is also where Retrouvaí really nails the layered look. The Los Angeles brand founded by Kirsty Stone has a brilliant way with hardstones – mottled dendrite, brilliant turquoise, vivid carnelian – and that’s never looked better than in her ‘Lollipop’ pendants, which feature gemstones set within hardstone surrounds in heart, disc and plaque shapes. Jumble them together on long chains.

Oversized cuff bracelets worn with sweaters looks hugely impactful. Whether they’re worn on your wrist, on the bicep over a knit, or holding the sleeves of a cardigan at the forearm, the cuffs need to be big and bold – in fact, the bigger the better. Buccellati, Carolina Bucci and Irene Neuwirth all have form here, as does Amrapali. The juxtaposition of wool and jewels has never looked cooler.