The cult comeback: why Coperni is the brand to know

To say that the announcement of cult brand Coperni’s return unleashed a wave of excitement throughout the fashion industry would be a serious understatement. The label, established in 2013, was a smash hit from day one. Co-founded by creative director Sébastien Meyer and CEO Arnaud Vaillant – who met while studying at the Institut Français de la Mode - the Parisian brand was awarded the first ANDAM collection’s prize in 2014 and was selected as a finalist for the illustrious LVMH prize just one year later.

Their rise was nothing short of stratospheric. And it was their raw, unrelenting talent that saw the duo swiftly poached by storied French fashion house, Courrèges. Unwilling to let Coperni become a mere side gig, Meyer and Valliant made the decision to put their own label on hold in the meantime. It wasn’t until February 2019 that editors, buyers and fans alike received the news they’d all been waiting for – the fashion insider’s favorite label was back.

Wondering what exactly it is about this emerging label that can cause such feverish excitement? It’s Coperni’s patented brand of playful practicality that has had the industry enthralled from the very beginning. Fashion was never the obvious choice for either Meyer – who was born in the South of France and attended a military school – or Valliant – who comes from a family of doctors. However, in many ways, it is precisely their outsider status that has guaranteed their success. Far from seeing clothing as purely romantic, both men understated that their creations are ultimately meant to be worn, and as such, they need to be inspiring and delightful, but also fit for purpose. This fundamental belief actually informs the brand name, which is an homage to Prussian astronomer Nicolaus Copernicus, the scientist who proved that the sun is at the center of the universe. For Meyer and Valliant, their woman is the center of the Coperni universe.

The Coperni aesthetic represents this perfect alchemy of pragmatism and personality. Typically influenced by everything from Brutalist architecture to the decorative arts, for SS20, Meyer and Valliant turned their attention to the notion of connectivity. The Coperni woman is decidedly modern, connected to the world in terms of technology, of course, but also in culture, art and innovation. From QR codes sewn into the label’s suiting – making the supply chain 100% transparent – to subtle nods to film icon Audrey Hepburn in the form of classic capri pants, this cerebral collection speaks to both the past and the future.

Each and every covetable piece has universal appeal, but also a Parisian flair – every woman has room in her closet for the perfect crisp shirt, LBD or precision-cut suit. A faultlessly conceived capsule closet, these designs can be worn separately or mixed and matched to great effect. A classic shirt dress feels like an utterly fresh proposition when layered under a wrap skirt, while an oversized blazer takes on an unmistakably out-of-office feel when paired with airy Bermuda shorts. The accessories boast the same eminent wearability – the brand’s graphic ballet pumps make a seamless addition to your on- or off-duty look when paired with somber suiting or distressed denim. While Coperni’s interpretation of the barely-there sandal, one of this season’s biggest trends, is an effortless way to make your 9-5 outfit work after hours.

We could wax lyrical about these game-changing pieces all day long but, really, all that’s left to say is that these future-facing designs were definitely worth the wait.