Travel

The Perfect Cape Town Itinerary: Where To Stay, Eat, Taste Wine And Explore

A private villa on the Babylonstoren wine estate

Where cosmopolitan cool and a vibrant art scene meet a dramatic coastline, verdant vineyards, rugged mountain landscapes and white sandy beaches – Cape Town has it all. Here’s where to stay, eat, taste wine and swim – plus, three tastemakers offer their insider tips. By ELLIE ROBERTSON

Lifestyle
The Silo Hotel offers excellent interior design as well as some stunning views of Table Mountain

WHERE TO STAY

The Silo Hotel

A former 1920s grain silo perched high above the oldest working harbor in the Southern Hemisphere, The Silo Hotel is the perfect place for those with an interest in architecture – or the arts for that matter, as the hotel shares the building with Zeitz MOCAA: Cape Town’s foremost contemporary art museum.

The industrial grandeur of the building – ultra-high ceilings and incredible ‘pillowed’ windows with geometrically patterned ironwork that is reminiscent of honeycomb – is softened by its eclectic interior design. Almost every room has panoramic views, but save your selfies for the rooftop bar – where the views of Table Mountain are unmatched. A word of warning: the rooftop pool, glass-sided like a fish tank, is not for the faint-hearted. The Silo Spa, however, is the epitome of relaxation, with a carefully curated menu of treatments that hero local botanicals.

Known as The Pink Lady, Mount Nelson, a Belmond Hotel, dates back to 1899 and is famed for its exquisite rose-hued exterior
The pool and gardens at Mount Nelson, a Belmond Hotel

Mount Nelson, a Belmond Hotel

Just a stone’s throw from Cape Town’s vibrant Kloof Street, Belmond’s Mount Nelson requires little introduction. It is the city’s grande dame, dating back to 1899 and so beloved that it has not one but two nicknames: The Pink Lady and The Nellie.

The decor inside is just as romantic as the rose-hued exterior, which makes it a popular choice for honeymooners – as do the hotel’s unique offerings. Its Whales, Wine and Helicopter Adventure provides guests with once-in-a-lifetime aerial views of migrating southern right whales, followed by a gourmet tasting at the Creation wines estate.

As luxurious as it is homely, Ellerman House in Bantry Bay enjoys spectacular vistas of the Atlantic Ocean

Ellerman House

Nestled in Bantry Bay, at the foot of Lion’s Head and overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, Ellerman House is a masterclass in understated luxury. With just 13 rooms and two villas, this private estate manages to feel both exclusive and homely – thanks to long-serving staff, freshly baked cookies in the room and the owner’s own art on the walls (one of the finest private collections in South Africa). Ingredients are all locally and sustainably sourced, as well as seasonal – and the wines are proudly South African.

Chef’s Warehouse is a glass-walled vineyard restaurant with a unique setting overlooking Beau Constantia

WHERE TO EAT

Exposed brickwork, small plates and a buzzy atmosphere, thanks to a room full of beautiful people: Between Us is made all the more special by the scent of orange trees floating in on the breeze.

FYN is elevated Japanese-South-African fusion and obscenely delicious. Sadly, that’s no secret – so book well in advance.

With jaw-dropping views of Beau Constantia, Chef’s Warehouse is a glass-walled vineyard restaurant, serving small plates that are big on provenance. Try the wines while overlooking the very vines they were harvested from.

To call Hemelhuijs a restaurant would be a disservice. The food is sublime but it’s the entire experience that feeds you, thanks to the ambitious owner. Jacques Erasmus is no figurehead: he’s chef, designer, ceramicist, artist, florist and botanist. The menu (hand-illustrated) reflects the fruits of the restaurant’s kitchen garden, and each dish is served on ceramics made by Erasmus himself.

Table Mountain

WHERE TO EXPLORE

Start your day hiking Table Mountain at dawn, reaching the summit as the sun lifts over the Atlantic. Or ramble along the False Bay shoreline on the Muizenberg-to-Kalk-Bay coastal walk, taking in pastel bathing huts, crashing waves and bohemian antique shops.

Cape Town’s contemporary art scene is world renowned. Wander through the cavernous galleries of Zeitz MOCAA, taking in the largest collection of contemporary art from Africa and its diaspora, all housed in a building that’s a work of art in its own right. Blank Projects started as an artist-run project space in 2005, dedicated to new developments in contemporary South African Art. It transitioned to a gallery in 2012 and has been an exciting place to discover new artists ever since. The Norval Foundation boasts an impressive collection of 20th- and 21st-century South African art but it’s the sculpture garden that truly sets it apart. The unique site – set within a protected wetland in the belly of the Western Cape wine country – juxtaposes modern sculptures with the natural beauty of its surroundings to profound effect. Southern Guild, Reservoir Projects and What If The World are all worth a visit, too.

Clifton Beach is an ideal spot for an invigorating sea swim
The penguins on Boulders Beach are a sight to behold

Beaches

The best for swimming: Clifton 4th Beach – because it’s all but sheltered from Cape Town’s summer winds.

The best for surfing: Muizenberg (somewhat unbelievably, Agatha Christie loved surfing here), Llandudno and Kommetjie are the best spots for chasing the waves.

The best for sipping spritzes: Camps Bay, a palm-lined catwalk of oceanfront cafés, luxury cars and an unapologetically glam crowd.

The best for watching penguins: Home to a colony of African penguins, Boulders Beach is a must on any Cape Town itinerary. Go early to avoid the crowds.

The magnificent Babylonstoren estate

Vineyards

Set beneath Simonsberg mountain, Babylonstoren is not just a vineyard: the 500-acre grounds house a hotel, more than one restaurant, a spa and a working farm dating back to 1692. It’s also included in the Franschhoek Wine Tram experience – an open-air tram route that covers eight estates in the picturesque Franschhoek winelands valley.

At Spier, you’ll find everything you need to enjoy wine at home – including a selection of books on the subject, beautiful kitchenware and, of course, the fruits of the vineyard’s biodynamic harvests. While adults sip wine, underage visitors can partake in an activity of their own: a grape-juice tasting complete with an activity sheet.

Tucked into the misty folds of the Constantia Valley and set amidst ancient trees, the 17th-century estate of Klein Constantia has the perfect location for cool-climate wines. What’s more, the estate’s world-famous Vin de Constance dessert wine has reportedly been served at Buckingham Palace state banquets.

THE TASTEMAKERS’ TIPS

Photographer Alice Mann was born in Cape Town. “Dalebrook Tidal Pool is one of my favorite places for a swim – and, as it is located on the Indian Ocean side of the city, the water is not as cold as some of the other beaches. Across the road is Chardonnay Deli Dalebrook, where you can enjoy a coffee after your swim – and they do the best brownies.”

London-based interior designer Sophie Ashby is half South African and has been visiting Cape Town since she was a child. It’s the drive to Cape Point she loves the most. “The fynbos and fauna and the colors of that landscape are what I see when I close my eyes and think of South Africa: the heathers, greens, yellows, rusts”. For sunrise, she recommends the superb views over Lion’s Head – and sunset should be savored at Bakoven Beach (with a bottle of South African Brut).

Johannesburg-born stylist Chloe Andrea Welgemoed: “One of the walks I love the most is Elephant’s Eye. Apart from the mountain looking like a resting elephant, it is a beautiful walk that ends in a cave [the figurative eye of the elephant]. Once you get back down, I’d recommend a swim in the Silvermine Reservoir. The National Gallery located in Cape Town’s oldest garden and heritage site is a lovely walk, too – and often has very exciting exhibitions on.”