How To Reset Problem Skin, According To This In-Demand Facialist

Dubbed the ‘acne whisperer’, Sofie Pavitt is the name passed between editors, insiders and celebrities (clients include Zendaya and Paloma Elsesser) when skin begins to misbehave. And, increasingly, it’s doing so later in life. Dermatologists are reporting a rise in adult-onset and persistent acne among women in their 30s, 40s and 50s, driven by hormonal fluctuations, chronic stress (aka ‘cortisol face’), environmental aggressors and, all too often, an overload of skincare. Navigating this beauty minefield is where Pavitt excels, having built her reputation on results-driven, fuss-free solutions that really work. While a visit to her New York studio is considered the gold standard for resetting skin, here she shares the triggers to avoid – and the at-home solutions to try to restore balance, clarity and glow.

“When I start working with a client, my first appointment is a lot of detective work. I consider what they use, how they use it, what they do for work, as there can be lifestyle triggers that significantly affect the skin. If a client comes in and tells me that they’re using eight to 10 different products and their skin is irritated, broken out and compromised, one of my tricks is to take them off everything and put them on a simple cleanser and moisturizer for two weeks, then reassess. This gives me a better understanding of whether they’re dealing with irritation from products or something deeper. This is a really easy tip to try at home, too.”

“Simplify your routine to just cleanse, treat, hydrate, and apply sunscreen, while removing products with pore-clogging ingredients. I’m a big believer in the path of least resistance, so a reset for me is about taking out the extras and keeping it simple. The first two weeks [of a skin reset] might involve just a cleanser and a moisturizer; then we may do a light peel, extractions and introduce some actives, once your skin is back to a baseline. It takes around 12 weeks to see marked improvement when following a skin-clearing journey, so I like to manage clients’ expectations when working on this.”

“Many people end up using too many products and, ultimately, too many active ingredients. At the same time, an excess of barrier repair products can also cause problems. Whatever skin concern you want to target, it’s important to keep it simple and be intentional about what you incorporate into your routine. Additionally, results always take longer than expected, which can leave people feeling frustrated and tempted to add more into their routines so it’s key to avoid doing this.”

“Almost always, using too many products leads to irritation. Skin flooding can also be excessive and has been known to lead to perioral dermatitis in some of my clients.”

“Stress is a significant trigger for problem skin since it tends to compound with other triggers, such as reaching for unhealthy foods or stopping exercise. Other often-overlooked triggers include not cleaning pillowcases or glasses regularly. If you keep getting acne in the same spot, consider what might be touching your face. There’s limited data on the food/acne link, but I frequently see its impact on my clients. Adding omega fatty acids and fiber to your diet can be highly beneficial during an acne-clearing journey, too.”

“If you can’t see a facialist regularly, the non-negotiables in a skincare routine are: a thorough yet gentle cleanse, a gentle exfoliant and a hydrating moisturizer that suits your skin type. And, of course, don’t forget sunscreen. There are many effective LED lights on the market that we use in our studio treatments [for instance, blue LED light therapy triggers the destruction of acne-causing bacteria] and this technology can be beneficial when used at home too. What’s more, when using devices that sit on your face, like an LED mask or a facial roller, I recommend using alcohol wipes to ensure you’re cleaning and disinfecting them after every use. Additionally, don’t overuse them. One to two times a week is enough since a daily dose can dry the skin out. Finally, never attempt extractions at home – always, always go to a professional.”

“If you’re not using sunscreen, you definitely need to add that into your routine. It’s a boring recommendation but it’s so obvious when treating an older client, whether they’ve used or still use sun protection on their skin. The anti-aging power of SPF includes fewer lines and wrinkles and less sunspots or hyperpigmentation damage, alongside the more serious aspect of skin-cancer prevention.”

“Mandelic acid is gentle enough to be used consistently and this low-and-slow daily exfoliation is a game changer for my clients. My Sofie Pavitt Face Mandelic Clearing Serum is an 8% concentration but is combined with barrier protection and additional hydration. It’s a winner and our hero product for a reason.”

“I recommend using a routine for 12 to 16 weeks to really see marked improvement with consistent use of new products. Some clients will see an overnight improvement, but 12 weeks is enough time to determine if that routine really is working for you.”

“I tell clients to wait until their skin feels consistent and calm before adding retinoids or more potent exfoliants back into their routine. There are many variables when it comes to our skin, so it’s important to be patient and establish a baseline to understand how each product is working. You should always reintroduce your products one at a time and give your skin time to respond before adding anything else. For instance, if I have a client with inflamed acne, I almost always recommend removing retinoids until the inflammation is down, adding in mandelic acid, and then slowly reintroducing the retinoids once everything has calmed down.”

“Acne can hit at different phases in life but there’s a lot of overlap in how I approach it. For teens, I often suggest putting my micellar pads in their backpacks so they can do a quick cleanse after swim practice, or wipe down their forehead and helmet after horseback riding, for instance. I give the same advice to adult clients for when they go to the gym. The specific lifestyle factors differ, but the advice to keep it simple by cleansing, treating and hydrating applies to both age groups.”