In The Know: The New Rivieras
From the islands of Salina, Bequia and Formentera to the waterfront views of Telluride and Kotor, the world’s more famous rivieras now have genuine competition. By NATASHA BIRD
Beyond the star-studded Côte d’Azur and Italy’s luxurious Ligurian shoreline, a new generation of irresistible riviera escapes is beginning to emerge. Clusters of burgeoning culture, next to the requisite large body of water, where the scenery is extraordinary, the hotels are progressively more exceptional, and the crowd is discerning enough to have discovered it before everyone else has. Here is our guide to a few of those arrivals…
Kotor, Montenegro
The Bay of Kotor possesses the visual drama of a Norwegian fjord, with the much more temperate climate of the Adriatic. The place is almost too good to be true.
Mountain walls rise from the water, enclosing a Unesco-protected bay peppered with medieval towns, stone churches and tiny islands. It is one of Europe’s most beautiful coastal landscapes, while remaining thankfully underexplored compared to the more touristy terrain of Croatia, just over the border.
Kotor itself is an old medieval town, enclosed by Venetian fortifications. Mostly pedestrianized, it has the beauty of parts of Venice, with much less of the bustle and inflated pricing.
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At the mouth of the bay, Mamula Island by Banyan Tree is a restored 19th-century fortress set on its own private island. Arrivals are by boat across Boka Bay and once inside, heritage suites sit alongside contemporary accommodations, while restaurants, a spa and healthy cultural programming make a glorious self-contained world.
Back on the mainland, Restaurant Galion is one of the region’s essential tables. Beside the water just outside Kotor’s Old Town, it serves a series of freshly caught seafood.
Montenegro has spent years being described as the next Croatia. It’s finally become a destination in its own right, but the Bay of Kotor has evolved even further, with enough scenery and styling to make it a real coastline contender.
Salina, Italy
The Aeolian Islands have lived a little in the shadow of Sicily, but Salina presents a great argument for skipping Taormina altogether.
Green, historically volcanic and replete with wild herbs, Salina is an island that rises from the Tyrrhenian Sea in a series of dramatic peaks. It isn’t a harsh landscape at all though, as you’ll find the terrain punctuated by vineyards, caper farms and whitewashed villages. Unlike neighboring Stromboli, which attracts visitors specifically for the promise of frequent, moderate eruptions, Salina doesn’t have any of that, as the volcanoes are now completely extinct.
The best way to really enjoy the island is by boat-hopping. There are lots of hidden swimming spots around its jagged corners, as well as cute fishing vessels drifting in and out of small harbors. And, for a little bit of drama, Stromboli often glows on the horizon at dusk, which is quite a sight to catch from a distance.
The island’s hospitality scene has become one of the more interesting in southern Italy. At Hotel Signum, a collection of ocher-colored Aeolian buildings wrapped in bougainvillea, chef Martina Caruso has helped establish Salina as a serious culinary contribution. Her cooking draws heavily on island ingredients: capers, citrus fruits, herbs and freshly caught seafood, served on terraces overlooking the sea.
A few minutes away, the adults-only Principe di Salina takes a different approach to luxury. Its 14 rooms look towards Stromboli and the surrounding sea, while communal dinners prepared by resident chef Filippo are a big part of the hotel’s appeal. The new Terracotta Rooms, including a semi-open-air infrared sauna and wellness space overlooking the volcanic landscape, are in keeping with an island where the greatest luxury is often doing very little at all.
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Bequia, St Vincent and The Grenadines
The Caribbean has no shortage of famous addresses, but some of Bequia’s charm lies in the fact that it is not yet one of them. No Fyre Festival threatens these Lesser Antilles.
Part of St Vincent and the Grenadines, the island is quite untouched by the scale of development that has transformed many of its neighbors. More than 10 people on a beach can still feel like a crowd. The lovely harbor is still lined with little fishing boats, rather than flashy gin palaces – and the locals haven’t been hustled out of town.
The island combines lush green hillsides with some of the most beautiful beaches in the Caribbean. Friendship Beach is the island’s greatest stretch of sand, backed by palms and gentle surf.
A hop, skip and a jump from Friendship Beach, Bequia Beach Hotel is currently the island’s defining luxury accommodation. Still family-owned and run, it is nostalgic while catering to your every need – and includes a saltwater pool, a sizeable spa and the hotel’s trio of restaurants, including Bagatelle and the ever-popular Jack’s Beach Bar.
For those seeking something even more private, Rock Villa has recently joined the hotel’s collection. Set above Friendship Beach, the eight-suite property combines Scandinavian, Italian and British influences, with views towards Mustique and the southern Grenadines. You can make sunset cocktails beside Rock Villa’s infinity pool a nightly habit – and who wouldn’t want that?
Then there is Sandy Toes, the hotel’s custom-built catamaran. Excursions connect guests to the Tobago Cays and some of the Caribbean’s most spectacular marine landscapes.
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Telluride, Colorado
According to our new definition, a riviera need not sit beside the sea. Telluride’s case for inclusion begins with the San Miguel River, a giant body of water that winds through the entire length of town, feeding on waterfalls and snowmelt from the surrounding San Juan Mountains. In summer, the river is the focal point of life in the valley. In winter, it still provides an incredible view.
In the cold part of the year, Telluride is sneaking up the preferred list of seasoned skiers. Independent boutiques, excellent restaurants and its natural beauty have helped transform the former mining town into one of America’s most desirable mountain destinations. In the summer, it’s even more peaceful, with walking routes and river activities on the roster.
The Madeline Hotel & Residences, Auberge Collection, occupies the heart of Mountain Village, offering ski-in, ski-out access and views towards Colorado’s 14,000-foot peaks. Its Timber Room is a very popular après-ski spot in the Rockies, while Black Iron Kitchen + Bar draws visitors all year round.
Closer to town, Element 52’s riverside residences sit directly beside the San Miguel River, pairing expansive private homes with Auberge’s polished service. In warmer months, guests opt into fly-fishing, hiking and river walks through the canyon. It’s like Aspen, but more low-key.
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Formentera, Spain
Not a surprising addition to this list, but Ibiza’s cool little sister is still a lot more tranquil than the club-centric bigger island.
Reached by ferry in under an hour, Formentera is much more of the Balearic vibe that existed before the DJs swooped in. The roads are lined with fig trees and pine forests. The beaches stretch for miles. Bicycles still outnumber fancy cars.
The southern coastline around Playa de Migjorn is among the island’s most beautiful, where pale sands give way to clear water and protected dunes. Here, Teranka has established itself as the island’s defining hotel. Conceived by the team behind Marbella Club, the property is spread across three whitewashed buildings between woodland and sea.
Art installations, exhibitions and a wellness program featuring visiting practitioners have positioned Teranka as a gathering point for locals and day visitors, as well as hotel guests. Here, you can indulge in yoga sessions, snorkeling excursions, rooftop aperitivos and exhibitions curated in partnership with local artistic organisations.
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