Bespoke Feature

Classic Miu Miu for the modern woman

Keen to imbue your closet with some off-kilter sophistication? Miu Miu’s decidedly modern take on feminine dressing is a surefire way to breathe new life into your look

Fashion

Miu Miu (a moniker derived from creative director and founder Miuccia Prada’s family nickname) is often seen as something of a wayward sibling. Founded in 1993 as a decidedly anti-fashion label, the house has stayed true to this mission statement ever since, with singular collections that can, in many ways, be considered a bellwether for the wider fashion landscape – always inciting trends, as opposed to following them. Unsurprisingly, the label’s Spring/Summer ’20 collection was no exception.

Miuccia Prada is a designer who is widely regarded as a pioneer, thanks to her daring ability to present fashion fans with pieces and combinations that even the most daring dressers might never have considered before. Having previously described the difference between designing for Prada and Miu Miu by explaining that, with the former, the entire concept is more meditated, while with the latter, her ideas are at their most raw and instinctive, it felt especially transgressive that the Miu Miu collection she debuted for SS20 was almost demure.

Each look evoked the glamorous women of Italian art-house cinema and the lean times of the post-war era – when women had to elevate the humblest of materials

Late-1940s- and early-1950s-style silhouettes cast in understated colors dominated the runway. A heady combination of prettiness and practicality, each look evoked the glamorous women of Italian art-house cinema and the lean times of the post-war era – when women had to elevate the humblest of materials, their closets an assemblage of ‘make do and mend’ pieces.

The endless wearability of each look that came down the runway was a further testament to the enduring appeal of slow fashion. Take a classic black cardigan, a fail-safe choice for off-duty days, worn around the shoulders and paired with a vinyl pencil skirt, this can be a sexy showstopper – perfect for date night. A pair of white wide-leg pants might sound like they should be reserved for special occasions but, when finished with a crop top layered over a slouchy sweater, they can also instantly elevate your daytime look. Plus, the high-waisted cut instantly lengthens the leg. Miu Miu’s ultra-feminine interpretation of the skirt suit promises to work for everything from board meetings to gala dinners – even city weddings. While ruffled separates can be worn together for an understated yet elegant evening look, or paired down with blue jeans and a chunky knit for long weekends spent gallery-hopping and lunching with friends.

Miuccia Prada’s true gift is the ability to create fashion that doesn’t just appeal to the senses, but also stirs the mind

This collection might not appear to be Miu Miu’s most avant-garde, but the message behind it is a strong and prescient one; investing and maintaining classic pieces is the most responsible way to shop today. Miuccia Prada’s true gift is the ability to create fashion that doesn’t just appeal to the senses, but also stirs the mind. This is evidenced by Miu Miu’s myriad of fans, which includes actors Margaret Qualley, Nathalie Emmanuel, Kaitlyn Dever and Lucy Boynton – women who aren’t afraid to step outside the box and do things differently. Miuccia Prada gives women what they want before they know they want it and, this season, she pulled off her most impressive feat yet by making the past, and all that comes with it, feel utterly new.